Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [277]
Yoshikawa (Map; 221-5544; Oike sagaru, Tominokōji, Nakagyō-ku; lunch ¥3000-25,000, dinner ¥8000-25,000; 11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm) This is the place to go for delectable tempura. It offers table seating, but it’s much more interesting to sit and eat around the small counter and observe the chefs at work. It’s near Oike-dōri in a fine traditional Japanese-style building. Reservation required for tatami room; counter and table seating unavailable on Sunday.
Mishima-tei (Map; 221-0003; 405 Sakurano-chō, Sanjō sagaru, Teramachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; sukiyaki lunch ¥8663-26,250, dinner ¥12,705-26,250, special lunch ¥3350 until 3pm; 11.30am-10pm, closed Wed) In the Sanjō covered arcade, this is an inexpensive place to sample sukiyaki: there is even a discount for foreign travellers! English menu; last orders 9pm.
Finally, you’ll find a few branches of the coffee chain Doutor in the downtown area, including one set back just off Kawaramachi-dōri, between Shijō and Sanjō.
Central Kyoto
This section covers a large swath of Kyoto, and includes our options that fall in the centre of the city, but that don’t fall on the Kyoto Station Area or Downtown Kyoto maps.
Didi (Map; 791-8226; 22 Tanaka Ōkubo-chō, Sakyō-ku; meals from ¥900; 11am-10pm, to 5pm Thu, closed Wed; ) On Higashiōji-dōri, north of Mikage-dōri, you’ll find this friendly little smoke-free restaurant serving tasty Indian lunch/dinner sets. There are plenty of vegetarian choices on the menu. It’s easy to spot from the street. English menu.
Cocohana (Map; 525-5587; 13-243-1 Honmachi, Higashiyama-ku; lunch ¥1000-1200; 10am-5.30pm) This place is one of a kind: a Korean cafe in a converted old Japanese house. Dishes here include bibimbap (a Korean rice dish) and kimchi (Korean pickles). A full range of coffee and tea drinks is also available. It’s a woody rustic place with both table and tatami seating. This makes a great stop while exploring southeastern Kyoto (Tōfuku-ji etc). English menu.
Den Shichi (Map; 323-0700; 4-1 Tatsumi-chō, Saiin, Ukyō-ku; sushi dinners from ¥2500; 11.30am-2pm & 5-11pm, closed Mon) A little out of the way, but well worth the trip, this is one of our favourite sushi restaurants in Kyoto. It’s great for dinner, but it also serves excellent and cheap lunches. In terms of price and quality, Den Shichi is always a good bet. Look for the black-and-white sign about 100m west of Hankyū Saiin Station on Shijō-dōri.
Manzara Honten (Map; 253-1558; 321 Sashimono-chō, Ebisugawa agaru, Kawaramachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; dinner courses from ¥5000; 5pm-midnight) Manzara is located in a converted machiya. The fare here is creative modern Japanese and the surroundings are decidedly stylish. The omakase (chef’s recommendation) course is good value, with eight dishes for ¥5000. English menu; last order is 11.30pm.
Southern Higashiyama
BUDGET
Gion Koishi (Map; 531-0331; 286-2 Gion machi Kita gawa, Higashiyama-ku; tea from ¥600; 10.30am-7.30pm) This is where we go when we want to cool down on a hot summer day in Gion. The speciality here is uji kintoki (¥900), a mountain of shaved ice flavoured with green tea, sweetened milk and sweet beans (it tastes a lot better than it sounds, trust us). This is only available in the summer months. Look for the models of the sweets and tea out the front. English menu.
Kasagi-ya (Map; 561-9562; 349 Masuya chō, Kōdai-ji, Higashiyama-ku;11am-6pm, closed Tue) At Kasagi-ya, on the Ninen-zaka slope near Kiyomizu-dera, this funky old wooden shop has atmosphere to boot and friendly staff. It’s a great place for a cup of green tea and a Japanese sweet to power you through a day of sightseeing in Higashiyama. Matcha tea with a sweet costs ¥700. It’s hard to spot; you may have to ask someone in the area to point it out. English menu; last entry 5.30pm.
Santōka (Map; 532-1335; 137 Daikoku-ch