Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [278]
Machapuchare (Map; 525-1330; 290 Kamihoritsume-chō, Sayamachi-dōri Shōmen sagaru, Higashiyama-ku; obanzai lunch set ¥840; 11.30am-8pm, closed Tue; ) This organic vegetarian restaurant serves a sublime vegetarian obanzai set (Kyoto home-style cooking). The problem is, the restaurant keeps somewhat irregular hours and the obanzai is not always available. Get a Japanese speaker to call and check before trekking here.
Asuka (Map; 751-9809; 144 Nishi-machi, Jingū-michi Nishi iru, Sanjō-dōri, Higashiyama-ku; meals from ¥850; 11am-10pm, closed Mon) With an English menu, and a staff of old Kyoto mama-sans at home with foreign customers, this is a great place for a cheap lunch or dinner while sightseeing in the Higashiyama area. The tempura moriawase (assorted tempura set) is a big pile of tempura for only ¥1000. Look for the red lantern and the pictures of the set meals. English menu.
Kagizen Yoshifusa (Map; 561-1818; 264 Gion machi Kita gawa, Higashiyama-ku; kuzukiri ¥900; 9.30am-6pm, closed Mon) One of Kyoto’s oldest and best-known okashi-ya (sweet shops) sells a variety of traditional sweets and has a cosy tearoom upstairs where you can sample cold kuzukiri (transparent arrowroot noodles), served with a kuro-mitsu (sweet black sugar) dipping sauce. It’s in a traditional machiya up a flight of stone steps. English menu. Last orders 5.45pm.
Hisago (Map; 561-2109; 484 Shimokawara-chō, Higashiyama-ku; 11.30am-7.30pm, closed Mon) If you need a quick meal while in the main southern Higashiyama sightseeing district, this simple noodle and rice restaurant is a good bet. It’s within easy walking distance of Kiyomizu-dera and Maruyama-kōen. Oyako-donburi (chicken and egg over rice; ¥980) is the speciality of the house. There is no English sign; look for the traditional front and the small collection of food models on display. In the busy seasons, there’s almost always a queue outside. English menu.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Shibazaki (Map; 525-3600; 4-190-3 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku; soba from ¥1000; 11am-9pm, closed Tue) For excellent soba noodles and well-presented tempura sets (among other things) in the area of Kiyomizu-dera, try this comfortable and spacious restaurant. After your meal, head upstairs to check out the sublime collection of Japanese lacquerware – it’s the best we’ve seen anywhere. There’s an English menu. Look for the low stone wall and the noren curtains hanging in the entryway.
Ryūmon (Map; 752-8181; Kita gawa, Higashiōji Nishi iru, Sanjō-dōri, Higashiyama-ku; dinner from ¥1500; 5pm-5am) The place looks like a total dive, but the food is reliable and authentic, as the crowds of Kyoto Chinese residents will attest. There’s no English menu, but there is a picture menu and some of the waiters can speak English. Decor is strictly Chinese kitsch, with the exception of the deer head over the cash register – we’re still trying to figure that one out.
Aunbo (Map; 525-2900; Shimokawara-chō, Yasaka Torii mae sagaru, Higashiyama-ku; lunch from ¥2625, lunch course ¥6615, dinner course ¥6615-11,025; noon-2pm & 5.30-10pm, closed Wed) Aunbo serves elegant, creative Japanese cooking in traditional Japanese surroundings. Dishes include sashimi, tempura-battered offerings and creative vegetable dishes. Aunbo takes reservations in the evening. There’s a small English sign and an English menu.
Ōzawa (Map; 561-2052; Minami gawa, Gion Shirakawa Nawate Higashi iru, Higashiyama-ku; meals from ¥3900; 5-10pm, closed Thu, lunch available on advance request) On a beautiful street in Gion, this restaurant offers good tempura in traditional Japanese surroundings. Unless you choose a private tatami room, you’ll sit at the counter and watch as the chef prepares each piece of tempura.