Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [279]
Northern Higashiyama
BUDGET
Hinode Udon (Map; 751-9251; 36 Kitanobō-chō, Nanzenji, Sakyō-ku; noodle dishes from ¥400; 11am-6pm, closed Sun) Filling noodle and rice dishes are served at this pleasant little shop with an English menu. Plain udon (thick white noodles) here is only ¥400, but we recommend you spring for the nabeyaki udon (pot-baked udon in broth) for ¥800. This is a good spot for lunch when temple-hopping near Ginkaku-ji or Nanzen-ji. English menu.
Karako (Map; 752-8234; 12-3 Tokusei-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; rāmen from ¥650; 11.30am-2pm & 6pm-2am, closed Tue) This is our favourite rāmen restaurant in Kyoto. While it’s not much on atmosphere, Karako has excellent rāmen – the soup is thick and rich and the chāshū (pork slices) melt in your mouth. We recommend the kotteri (thick soup) rāmen. Look for the red lantern outside.
Zac Baran (Map; 751-9748; 18 Sannō-chō, Shōgo-in, Sakyō-ku; dishes from ¥500; noon-3am) Near the Kyoto Handicraft Centre, this is a good spot for a light meal or a drink. It serves a variety of spaghetti dishes, as well as a good lunch special. It’s down a flight of steps.
Earth Kitchen Company (Map; 771-1897; 9-7 Higashi Maruta-chō, Kawabata, Marutamachi, Sakyō-ku; lunch ¥700; 10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat, closed Sun) Located on Marutamachi-dōri near the Kamo-gawa, this is a tiny spot that seats just two people but does a bustling business serving tasty takeaway lunch bentō. If you fancy a picnic lunch for your temple-hopping, this is the place.
Cafe Proverbs 15:17 (Map; 707-6856; Domus Hyakumanben 3F, 28-20 Tanakamonzen-chō, Sakyō-ku; drinks/food from ¥300/700; 11am-10pm, from noon Sun, to 6pm Wed, closed Mon; ) This is a pleasant spot for a cuppa or a light vegetarian meal. Lunch sets include green curry, sandwiches and Japanese fare. It’s on the 3rd floor but there’s a small sign on street level. English menu.
Goya (Map; 752-1158; 114-6 Nishida-chō, Jōdo-ji, Sakyō-ku; noon-5pm & 6pm-midnight, closed Wed) We love this Okinawan-style restaurant for its tasty food, stylish interior and comfortable upstairs seating. It’s the perfect place for lunch while exploring northern Higashiyama and it’s just a short walk from Ginkaku-ji. At lunch they serve simple things like taco rice (¥880) and gōya champurū (bitter melon stir-fry; ¥680), while dinners are more à la carte affairs with a wide range of izakaya fare, much of it with an Okinawan twist. There’s an English sign and menu.
MIDRANGE
Okakita (Map; 771-4831; 34 Minamigosho-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; 11am-8pm, closed Tue) For a civilised bowl of excellent soba noodles, try this elegant place in Okazaki, not far from the museum district and Heian-jingū. If you can manage to get a table (it’s very popular), you’ll be able to sample such dishes as tempura soba (¥1200). There is no English sign but there is a simple English menu; look for the traditional latticework on the front.
Yamamoto Menzou (Map; 751-0677; 34 Minamigosho-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; lunch 11am-2.30pm, dinner 5.30-9pm, lunch only Wed, closed Thu & 4th Wed) Right next door to Okakita, this place serves a great bowl of udon noodles (about ¥900 per bowl) with a variety of toppings. We like to pair them with a plate of tsuchi gobō tempura (burdock-root fries; ¥265). Like its neighbour, it’s very popular, but worth the wait. The name is written in English in small letters on the sign.
Caffe’ Dell’Orso (Map; 761-7600; 36-13 Naka Adachi-chō, Yoshida, Sakyō-ku; lunch/dinner ¥1000/2500; 11.30am-10pm, closed Sun & 2nd Mon) If you find yourself in the area of Kyoto University, this casual and friendly Italian cafe is a great spot for a meal or a drink. They serve excellent pasta and homemade foccacia at a long counter or tables. English is spoken. Look for the blue awning.
Omen (Map; 771-8994; 74 Jōdo-ji Ishibashi-cho, Sakyō-ku; noodles from ¥1050; 11am-10pm, closed Thu) This noodle shop is named after the thick, white noodles served in a hot broth with a selection of seven fresh vegetables. Just say ‘omen’ and you’ll be given your choice of hot