Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [280]
TOP END
Grotto (Map; 771-0606; 114 Jōdo-ji Nishida-chō, Sakyō-ku; dinner course ¥4750; 6pm-midnight, closed Sun) This stylish little place along Imadegawa-dōri serves a killer dinner set menu that will take you through the major tastes in the Japanese gastronomy. It’s a great way to spend two or three hours with someone special. Reservations are recommended. The master speaks English and there’s an English menu. Last orders 10pm.
Arashiyama & Sagano Area
Komichi (Map; 872-5313; 23 Ōjōin-chō, Nison-in Monzen, Ukyō-ku, Saga; matcha ¥600; 10am-5pm, closed Wed) This friendly little tea house is perfectly located along the Arashiyama tourist trail. In addition to hot and cold tea/coffee drinks, they serve uji kintoki (sweet matcha over shaved ice, sweetened milk and sweet beans – sort of a Japanese Italian ice) in summer and a variety of light noodle dishes year-round. The picture menu helps with ordering. The sign is green and black on a white background.
Yoshida-ya (Map; 861-0213; 20-24 Tsukurimichi-chō, Saga Tenryū-ji, Ukyō-ku; lunch from ¥800; 10am-6pm, closed Wed) This quaint and friendly little teishoku-ya (set-meal restaurant) is the perfect place to grab a simple lunch while in Arashiyama. All the standard teishoku favourites are on offer, including things like oyako-donburi for ¥850. You can also cool off here with a refreshing uji kintoki (¥650). It’s the first place south of the station and it’s got a rustic front.
Arashiyama Yoshimura (Map; 863-5700; Tōgetsu-kyō kita, Ukyō-ku; soba dishes from ¥1050, set meals from ¥1575;11am-5pm) For a tasty bowl of soba noodles and a million-dollar view over the Arashiyama mountains and the Tōgetsu-kyō bridge, head to this extremely popular eatery just north of the famous bridge, overlooking the Katsura-gawa. There’s an English menu but no English sign; look for the big glass windows and the stone wall.
Shigetsu (Map; 882-9725; 68 Susukinobaba-chō, Saga Tenryū-ji, Ukyō-ku; lunch sets ¥3500, ¥5500 & ¥7500; 11am-2pm) To sample shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) try Shigetsu in the precinct of Tenryū-ji. It has beautiful garden views.
Ōhara
Seryō-jaya (Map; 744-2301; Ōhara Sanzenin hotori, Sakyō-ku; lunch sets from ¥2756; 11am-6pm) Just by the entry gate to Sanzen-in, Seryō-jaya serves tasty soba noodles and other fare. There is outdoor seating in the warmer months. Look for the food models. Enter by 4pm.
Kurama
Aburaya-shokudō (Map; 741-2009; 252 Honmachi, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; udon & soba from ¥550; 10am-4.30pm, closed irregularly) Just down the steps from the main gate of Kurama-dera, this classic old-style shokudō (all-round restaurant) reminds us of what Japan was like before it got rich. The sansai teishoku (¥1700) is a delightful selection of vegetables, rice and soba topped with grated yam.
Yōshūji (Map; 741-2848; 1074 Honmachi, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; meals from ¥1050; 9am-6pm, closed Tue) Yōshūji serves superb shōjin-ryōri in a delightful old Japanese farmhouse with an irori (open hearth). The house special, a sumptuous selection of vegetarian dishes served in red lacquered bowls, is called kurama-yama shōjin zen (¥2600). Or if you just feel like a quick bite, try the uzu-soba (soba topped with mountain vegetables; ¥1050). It’s halfway up the steps leading to the main gate of Kurama-dera; look for the orange lanterns out the front. English menu.
Kibune
Visitors to Kibune from June to September should not miss the chance to cool down by dining at one of the picturesque restaurants beside the Kibune-gawa. Meals are served here on platforms (known as kawa-doko) suspended over the river as cool water flows just underneath. Most of the restaurants offer some kind of lunch special