Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [281]
Kibune Club (Map; 741-2146; 76 Kibune-chō, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; 11.30am-6pm; coffee from ¥450) The exposed wooden beams and open, airy feel of this rustic cafe make it a great spot for a cuppa while exploring Kibune. In the winter, they sometimes crank up the wood stove, which makes the place rather cosy. It’s easy to spot.
Hirobun (Map; 741-2147; 87 Kibune-chō, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; noodles from ¥1200, kaiseki courses from ¥8400; 11am-9pm) If you don’t feel like breaking the bank on a snazzy course lunch, head for this place where you can sample nagashi-sōmen (¥1200), thin white noodles that flow to you in globs down a split bamboo gutter; just pluck them out and slurp away (it is served until 5pm). Look for the black-and-white sign and the lantern. Reserve for dinner.
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DRINKING
Kyoto has a great variety of bars, clubs and discos, all of which are good places to meet Japanese folks. And if you happen to be in Kyoto in the summer, many hotels and department stores operate rooftop beer gardens with all-you-can-eat-and-drink deals and good views of the city. Check the Kyoto Visitor’s Guide for details.
Bars
Ing (Map; 255-5087; Nishikiyamachi-dōri, Takoyakushi agaru, Nakagyō-ku; meals ¥250-700, drinks from ¥600; 6pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri-Sun) One of our favourite spots, this little joint is the place for cheap bar snacks and drinks, good music and friendly company. It’s on the 2nd floor of the Royal building.
Atlantis (Map; 241-1621; 161 Matsumoto-chō, Shijō agaru, Ponto-chō, Nakagyō-ku; drinks from ¥730; 6pm-2am Mon-Sat, to 1am Sun) This bar is one of the few on Ponto-chō that foreigners can walk into without a Japanese friend. It’s a slick, trendy place that draws a fair smattering of Kyoto’s beautiful and wannabe beautiful people. In summer you can sit outside on a platform looking over the Kamo-gawa. Drinks average ¥900 to ¥1000.
McLoughlin’s Irish Bar & Restaurant (Map; 212-6339; 8F The Empire Bldg, Kiyamachi, Sanjō-agaru, Nakagyō-ku; 6pm-midnight, closed Tue; ) With a fine view over the city, great beer on tap, good food and an open feeling, this bar is a nice place to spend an evening in Kyoto. It’s also a good place to meet local expats and Japanese. It hosts some great music events as well. There is wi-fi internet access in case you want to do some surfing with your beer.
Gael Irish Pub (Map; 525-0680; Nijūikken-chō, Yamatoōji-dōri agaru, Shijō, Higashiyama-ku; drinks from ¥500; 5pm-1am, later Thu-Sun) A cosy little Irish bar on the doorstep of Gion. It offers good food, excellent beer and friendly staff, as well as occasional live music. It’s a great place to meet local expats and see what’s going on in town. It’s up a flight of steps.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Most of Kyoto’s cultural entertainment is of an occasional nature, and you’ll need to check with the TIC or a magazine like Kansai Time Out to find out whether anything interesting coincides with your visit. Regular cultural events are generally geared towards the tourist market and tend to be expensive and, naturally, somewhat touristy.
Clubs
Metro (Map; 752-4765; BF Ebisu Bldg., Marutamachi sagaru, Kawabata, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥500-5000, varies daily; about 10pm-3am) This is one of the most popular and vibrant clubs in town. It holds a variety of themed events and occasional live bands or international DJ events. It’s inside exit 2 of the Keihan Marutamachi Station.
World (Map; 213-4119; Nishikiyamachi-dōri-Shijō agaru; admission ¥2500-3000, drinks from ¥500; about 10pm-5am, Fri, Sat & day before holiday only) World is Kyoto’s biggest club and it naturally hosts some of the biggest events. It has two floors, a dance floor and lockers where you can leave your stuff while you dance the night away. Events include everything from deep soul to reggae to techno to salsa.
Geisha Dances
Annually in autumn and spring, geisha and their maiko apprentices from Kyoto’s five geisha