Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [288]
The east–west Tōzai subway line traverses Kyoto from Uzumasa-Tenjingawa in the west, meeting the Karasuma subway line at Karasuma-Oike Station, and continuing east to Sanjō Keihan, Yamashina and Rokujizō, in the east and southeast.
Taxi
Kyoto taxi fares start at ¥640 for the first 2km. The exception is MK Taxis (778-4141), whose fares start at ¥580.
MK Taxis also provides tours of the city with English-speaking drivers. For a group of up to four, prices start at ¥21,800 for a three-hour tour. Another company offering a similar service is Kyōren Taxi Service (672-5111).
Most Kyoto taxis are equipped with satellite navigation systems. If you are going somewhere unusual, it will help the driver if you have the address or phone number of your destination, as both of these can be programmed into the system.
Return to beginning of chapter
SHIGA-KEN
Just across the Higashiyama mountains from Kyoto is Shiga-ken, a small prefecture dominated by Biwa-ko, Japan’s largest lake. The prefecture has a variety of attractions that are easily visited as day trips from Kyoto. The major attractions here are the towns of Nagahama, with its Kurokabe Square neighbourhood of glass artisans, and Hikone, with its fine original castle. Other worthwhile destinations include temples like Mii-dera and Ishiyama-dera, and the Miho Museum, which is worth a trip just to see the building and the compound in which it is located.
Return to beginning of chapter
ŌTSU
077 / pop 333,800
Ōtsu has developed from a 7th-century imperial residence (the city was capital of Japan for just five years) into a lake port and major post station on the Tōkaidō highway between eastern and western Japan. It is now the capital of Shiga-ken.
The information office (522-3830; 8.40am-5.25pm) is at JR Ōtsu Station.
Mii-dera
Mii-dera (522-2238; 246 Onjōji-chō; admission ¥500; 8am-5pm) is a short walk northwest from Keihan Hama-Ōtsu Station. The temple, founded in the late 7th century, is the head branch of the Jimon branch of Tendai Buddhism. It started its days as a branch of Enryaku-ji on Hiei-zan, but later the two fell into conflict, and Mii-dera was repeatedly razed by Enryaku-ji’s warrior monks. The Niō-mon gate here is unusual for its roof, made of layers of tree bark, rather than tiles. It looks particularly fine when framed by the cherry trees in early April. Last entry 4.30pm.
Festivals & Events
Ōtsu Dai Hanabi Taikai (Ōtsu Grand Fireworks Festival) If you’re in town on 8 August, be sure to catch this. Starting at dusk, the best spots to watch are along the waterfront near Keihan Hama-Ōtsu Station. Be warned that trains to and from Kyoto are packed for hours before and after the event.
Ōtsu Matsuri Takes place in early–mid-October at Tenson-jinja, close to JR Ōtsu Station. Ornate floats are displayed on the first day and paraded around the town on the second day.
Getting There & Away
From Kyoto, take the JR Tōkaidō line from JR Kyoto Station to JR Ōtsu Station (¥190, nine minutes), or travel on the Kyoto Tōzai subway line to Hama-Ōtsu Station (¥410, 21 minutes from Sanjō Keihan Station).
Return to beginning of chapter
ISHIYAMA-DERA
This Shingon-sect temple (077-537-0013; 1-1-1 Ishiyama-dera; admission ¥500; 8am-4.30pm) was founded in the 8th century. The room beside the hondō is famed as the place where Lady Murasaki wrote The Tale of Genji. The temple precincts are in a lovely forest with lots of good trails to explore, including the one that leads up to Tsukimitei hall, from which there are great views over Biwa-ko.
The temple is a 10-minute walk from Keihan Ishiyama-dera Station (continue along the road in the direction that the train was travelling). Take the Kyoto Tōzai line subway from Sanjō Keihan Station in Kyoto to Keihan Hama-Ōtsu and change there to a Keihan-line Ishiyama-dera-bound futsū (¥540, 33 minutes). Alternatively, take the JR Tōkaidō line from JR Kyoto Station to JR Ishiyama-dera Station (kaisoku or futsū trains only, ¥230, 13 minutes) and switch to the Keihan line for the short journey to Keihan Ishiyama-dera Station (¥160).