Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [289]
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MIHO MUSEUM
This museum (0748-82-3411; www.miho.or.jp; 300, Momodani, Shigaraki; adult/child ¥1000/300; 10am-5pm, closed Mon mid-Mar–mid-Jun, mid-Jul–mid-Aug & Sep–mid-Dec) is visually stunning, located in the countryside of Shiga-ken near the village of Shigaraki. The IM Pei–designed museum houses the Shumei Family art collection, which includes examples of Japanese, Middle Eastern, Chinese and south Asian art.
A visit to the museum is something like a visit to the secret hideout of an archvillain in a James Bond film, and there is no doubt that the facility is at least as impressive as the collection. Since a trip to the museum from Kyoto or Osaka can take the better part of a day, we highly recommend calling the museum to check what’s on before making the trip. Last entry 4pm.
To get there, take the JR Tōkaidō line from Kyoto or Osaka to Ishiyama Station, and change to a Teisan Bus (Tanakami Eigyōsho; 562-3020; www.teisan-bus.co.jp/index.php, in Japanese) bound for the museum (¥800, approximately 50 minutes).
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HIKONE
0749 / pop 111,800
Hikone is the second-largest city in the prefecture and of special interest to visitors for its lovely castle, which dominates the town. The adjoining garden is also a classic and is a must-see after your visit to the castle.
Orientation & Information
There is a good tourist information office (22-2954; 9am-5pm), which is on your left at the bottom of the steps as you exit the west exit of Hikone Station. It stocks the excellent Street Map & Guide to Hikone.
The castle is a 10-minute walk straight up the street from the station (take a left before the shrine, then a quick right).
Hikone-jō
This castle (22-2742; 1-1 Konki-chō; admission ¥500; 8.30am-5pm) was completed in 1622 by the Ii family, who ruled as daimyō (domain lords) over Hikone. It is rightly considered one of the finest castles in Japan. Much of it is original, and you can get a great view across the lake from the upper storeys. Surrounded by more than 1000 cherry trees, the castle is a very popular spot for springtime hanami activities.
After visiting the castle, don’t miss nearby Genkyū-en (admission incl in castle ticket; 8.30am-5pm), a lovely Chinese-influenced garden that was completed in 1677. Ask someone at the castle to point you in the right direction. There’s a tea house in the garden where ¥500 gets you a cup of matcha and a sweet to enjoy as you gaze over the scenery.
Yumekyō-bashi Castle Road
About 400m southwest of the castle (marked on the Street Map & Guide to Hikone map and accessible via the Omote-mon gate or the Ōte-mon gate of the castle), this street of traditional shops and restaurants is the ideal spot for lunch after exploring the castle, and a browse in the shops is a nice way to round out the day.
Our favourite spot for a bite here is Monzen-ya (; 24-2297; soba around ¥800; 11am-7pm, closed Tue), a great little soba place that serves such things as nishin-soba (soba noodles with herring; ¥880). Starting from the castle end of the street, it’s about 100m on the left – look for the white noren curtain with black lettering in the doorway.
Festivals & Events
The Birdman Contest, held in summer (dates differ every year) at Matsubara Beach in Hikone, is a fantastic celebration of the human desire to fly – ideally without the use of fossil fuels. Here you will find contestants launching themselves over Biwa-ko in all manner of flimsy human-powered flying machines.
Getting There & Away
Hikone is about an hour (shinkaisoku, ¥1110) from Kyoto on the JR Tōkaidō line. If you have a JR Rail Pass or are in a hurry, you can take the shinkansen to Maibara (¥3100, 18 minutes from Kyoto) and then backtrack from there on the JR Tōkaidō line to Hikone (¥180, five minutes).
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NAGAHAMA
0749 / pop 85,350
Nagahama is a surprisingly appealing little town on the northeast shore of Biwa-ko, which can easily be teamed up with a trip to Hikone. The main attraction here is the Kurokabe Square neighbourhood northeast