Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [290]
If you’re in the area from 14 to 16 April, check out the Nagahama Hikiyama Matsuri, in which costumed children perform Hikiyama kyōgen on top of a dozen festival floats decked out with elaborate ornamentation.
Kurokabe Square
Many of the old machiya and kura (storehouses) in this attractive old neighbourhood have been converted into shops and galleries highlighting the town’s traditional (and modern) glass industry. Exit the east side of Nagahama Station and take the first left after Shiga Bank; after about 50m on your right (at the corner), you will find the Kurokabe Information Centre (; 65-8055; 10am-6pm, to 5pm Nov-Mar), which has maps of the area.
We like the small collection of glass objets at the Kurokabe Museum of Glass Art (; 62-6364; admission ¥600; 10am-5pm). While you’re there, ask them to demonstrate the suikinkutsu, a strange ‘musical instrument’ formed from an overturned urn into which water is dripped. It’s about 50m north of the information centre, on the opposite side of the street. Last entry 4.30pm.
Our hands-down favourite attraction in Kurokabe Square is the Giant Kaleidoscope (; kyodaimangekyō; admission free; dawn-dusk), which is located off a shopping arcade north of the Kurokabe Museum of Glass Art. From the museum, walk north to the next street and take a right. About 30m after entering the arcade, you will see a sign reading ‘Antique Gallery London’. It’s in an open area behind this shop.
Not far from the Giant Kaleidoscope is Daitsū-ji (; 62-0054; admission to garden/grounds ¥500/free; 9am-4.30pm, closed year-end/new-year holidays), a Jodo-Shin-sect temple that’s worth a quick look (we don’t recommend paying to enter the garden, though).
Eating
Torikita (; 62-1964; dishes from ¥470; 11.30am-2pm & 4.30-7pm, closed Tue) This place specialises in one dish: oyako-donburi (chicken and egg over a bowl of rice; ¥580). If you don’t like raw egg, ask for oyako-donburi nama tamago nashi de. It’s 200m down the main street east of the station, opposite Shiga Bank; look for the traditional front and white noren curtain in the doorway.
Getting There & Away
Nagahama is on the JR Tōkaidō line (shinkaisoku, ¥1280, 62 minutes from Kyoto). Be aware that not all shinkaisoku from Kyoto go all the way to Nagahama; you may have to change in Maibara, which is a 10-minute ride south of Nagahama by shinkaisoku (¥190). If you’ve got a JR Rail Pass, you can take the shinkansen to Maibara (¥3100, 18 minutes from Kyoto) and then switch to a local JR train for the short trip to Nagahama.
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NORTHERN KANSAI
The spectacular coastline of northern Kansai is known for its sandy beaches, rugged headlands, rocky islets and laid-back atmosphere. The JR San-in line runs the length of the area, but it spends a fair bit of time inland and in tunnels. The best way to see the coastline is on wheels, whether it be a rental car, a motorbike, a bicycle or by thumb.
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MOROYOSE
Moroyose, in Hyōgo-ken, near the border with Tottori-ken, is a pleasant little seaside town with a decent sand beach. Youth Hostel Moroyose-sō (; 0796-82-3614; 461 Moroyose; r without meals per person ¥3225) is a good spot to stay for backpackers, with fairly large rooms for a YH and breakfast/dinner for ¥525/945. It’s a 10-minute climb uphill from the eastern end of the beach. Moroyose is on the JR San-in line; the station is in the centre of town, very close to the beach.
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TAKENO
Takeno is a pleasant little fishing village and summer resort with two good sandy beaches: Benten-hama () to the west and Takeno-hama () to the east. To get to Benten-hama, exit Takeno Station and turn left at the first light and walk straight for about 15 minutes (you will cross one big street en route). To get to Takeno-hama, go straight out of the station and walk for around 20 minutes. There is an information office (0796-47-1080; 8.30am-5pm) on the beachfront at Takeno-hama in an orange brick building. This office can help with accommodation in local minshuku (B&B-style