Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [297]
Within 10 years the castle had been rebuilt by the Tokugawa forces, but it was to suffer a further calamity when another generation of the Tokugawa clan razed it rather than let it fall to the forces of the Meiji Restoration in 1868.
The present structure is a 1931 concrete reconstruction of the original, which was refurbished in 1997. The interior of the castle houses an excellent collection of displays relating to the castle, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and the city of Osaka. On the 8th floor there is an observation deck offering 360-degree views of Osaka and surrounding areas.
The castle and park are at their best in the spring-cherry-blossom and autumn-foliage seasons. Enter by 30 minutes before closing.
The Ōte-mon gate, which serves as the main entrance to the park, is a 10-minute walk northeast of Tanimachi-yonchōme Station (sometimes written as Tanimachi 4-chome) on the Chūō and Tanimachi subway lines. You can also take the Osaka Loop line, get off at Osaka-jō-kōen Station and enter through the back of the castle.
MODERN TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM
If you’ve got kids in tow or just love those trains, then you’ll want to check out the small but interesting Modern Transportation Museum (off Map; 6581-5771; 3 Namiyoke, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥400/100; 9am-5.30pm, closed Mon & year-end/new-year holidays; JR Osaka Loop line to Bentenchō, south exit), which is on the west side of town, easily accessed by the JR Osaka Loop line. The displays focus mostly on trains, but there are also some great models of ships and aircraft, several decent interactive displays, as well as life-sized shinkansen that you can climb inside to check out what things look like from the engineer’s seat. Outside, there are several real steam and electric engines and passenger cars that you can climb inside (one is a working restaurant car). Finally, don’t miss the great model-train layout at the far end of the building.
To get there from the station, take a hard left out of the turnstiles and it’s across the street.
Nakano-shima
Sandwiched between Dōjima-gawa and Tosabori-gawa, this island (Map) is a pleasant oasis of trees and riverside walkways in the midst of Osaka’s unrelenting grey. It’s also home to Osaka City Hall, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics and Nakano-shima-kōen. The latter park, on the eastern end of the island, is a good place for an afternoon stroll or picnic lunch. If you’re coming from Kyoto, Nakano-shima is just north of Yodoyabashi Station, the terminus of the Keihan line.
MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS
With more than 2700 pieces in its permanent collection, this museum (Map; 6223-0055; 1-1-26 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku; admission ¥500; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon; Midō-suji subway line to Yodoyabashi) has one of the finest collections of Chinese and Korean ceramics anywhere in the world. At any one time, approximately 300 of the gorgeous pieces from the permanent collection are on display, and there are often special exhibits (which cost extra). Last entry 4.30pm.
To get to the museum, go to Yodoyabashi Station on either the Midō-suji line or the Keihan line (different stations). Walk north to the river and cross to Nakano-shima. Turn right, pass the city hall on your left, bear left with the road, and look for the squat brown brick building.
Minami Area
A few stops south of Osaka Station on the Midō-suji subway line (get off at either Shinsaibashi or Namba Station), the Minami area (Map) is the place to spend the evening in Osaka. Its highlights include the Dōtombori Arcade, the National Bunraku Theatre, Dōguya-suji Arcade and Amerika-Mura.
DŌTOMBORI
Dōtombori is Osaka’s liveliest nightlife area. It’s centred on Dōtombori-gawa and Dōtombori Arcade (Map), a strip of restaurants and theatres where a peculiar type of Darwinism is the rule for