Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [298]
Only a short walk south of Dōtombori Arcade you’ll find Hōzen-ji (Map), a tiny temple hidden down a narrow alley. The temple is built around a moss-covered Fudō-myōō statue. This statue is a favourite of people employed in mizu shōbai (water trade), who pause before work to throw some water on the statue. Nearby, you’ll find Hōzen-ji Yokochō, a tiny alley filled with traditional restaurants and bars.
To the south of Dōtombori, in the direction of Nankai Namba Station, you’ll find a maze of colourful arcades with more restaurants, pachinko parlours, strip clubs, cinemas and who knows what else. To the north of Dōtombori, between Midō-suji and Sakai-suji, the narrow streets are crowded with hostess bars, discos and pubs.
DŌGUYA-SUJI ARCADE
If you desperately need a tako-yaki (octopus piece) fryer, a red lantern to hang outside your shop or plastic food models to lure the customers in, this shopping arcade (Map) is the place to go. You’ll also find endless knives, pots, pans and just about anything else that’s even remotely related to the preparation and consumption of food.
AMERIKA-MURA
Amerika-Mura (America Village; Map) is a compact enclave of trendy shops and restaurants, with a few discreet love hotels thrown in for good measure. The best reason to come is to check out the hordes of colourful Japanese teens living out the myth of America. These days, the look is hip-hop for guys and dark tans and tiny shorts for the girls. The peculiar name, by the way, comes from the presence of several shops that sprang up here after the war and sold various bits of Americana, like Zippo lighters and American T-shirts.
In the middle of it all is Amerika-Mura Triangle Park, an all-concrete park with benches where you can sit and watch the parade of fashion victims. Amerika-Mura is one or two blocks west of Midō-suji, bounded on the north by Suomachi-suji and on the south by Dōtombori-gawa.
Tennō-ji & Around
SHIN-SEKAI
For something completely different, take a walk through this retro entertainment district just west of Tennō-ji-kōen. At the heart of it all you’ll find crusty old Tsūten-kaku tower (Map), a 103m-high structure that dates back to 1912 (the present tower was rebuilt in 1969). When the tower first went up it symbolised everything new and exciting about this once-happening neighbourhood (shin-sekai is Japanese for ‘new world’).
Now, Shin-Sekai is a world that time forgot. You’ll find ancient pachinko parlours, run-down theatres, dirt-cheap restaurants and all manner of raffish and suspicious characters.
SPA WORLD
At the southern edge of Shin-Sekai is the superspa known as Spa World (Map; 6631-0001; 3-4-24 Ebisu higashi, Naniwa-ku; per 3hr/full day Mon-Fri ¥2400/2700, Sat, Sun & holidays ¥2700/3000; 24hr, no entry 8.45-10am; Sakai-suji or Midō-suji subway line to Dōbutsuen-mae). Billed as the world’s largest spa complex, it consists of two floors of baths, one Asian themed and one European themed, and a fabulous rooftop waterworld with pools and waterslides, along with restaurants and relaxation areas.
The Asian and European bath floors are segregated by sex; one month the ladies get the Asian bath floor and the men have the European bath floor, and then it switches to the opposite, so you will have to visit twice to sample all the baths (they’re fairly similar, so you’re not missing much if you don’t). We particularly like the rotemburo on the roof, from which you can see Tsūten-kaku tower rising like a retro spaceship to the north. Be sure to bring a bathing suit if you want to visit the waterworld (or you can rent one for ¥300).
SHITENNŌ-JI
Founded in 593, Shitennō-ji (Map; 6771-0066; 1-11-18 Shitennō-ji, Tennōji-ku; admission ¥200-300; 8.30am-4pm;