Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [319]
After visiting the shrine, leave via the main entrance and bear left up the path to Wakamiya-jinja, passing several small shrines on the way. After seeing the shrine, retrace your steps towards Kasuga Taisha, and take a left down the steps which lead back towards the centre of town. You’ll pass first through Ni-no-Torii and then continue down the broad wooded arcade to Ichi-no-Torii. Cross the street and you’ll soon see the pagoda of Kōfuku-ji (opposite). Walk through the Kōfuku-ji grounds, passing between the Nanen-dō and Hokuen-dō halls, and take the narrow lane that leads down to Higashi-muki Arcade. A quick right here will bring you back to where you started.
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TŌDAI-JI
Nara’s famous Daibutsu (Great Buddha) is housed in the Daibutsu-den Hall of this grand temple. It’s Nara’s star attraction and can often be packed with tour groups and schoolchildren from across the country, but it’s big enough to absorb huge crowds and it belongs at the top of any Nara itinerary.
Before you enter the temple be sure to check out the Nandai-mon, an enormous gate containing two fierce-looking Niō guardians. These recently restored wooden images, carved in the 13th century by the sculptor Unkei, are some of the finest wooden statues in all of Japan, if not the world. They are truly dramatic works of art and seem ready to spring to life at any moment. The gate is about 200m south of the temple enclosure.
Note that most of Tōdai-ji’s grounds can be visited free of charge, with the exception of the main hall: the Daibutsu-den Hall.
Daibutsu-den Hall
Tōdai-ji’s Daibutsu-den (Hall of the Great Buddha; 22-5511; 406-1 Zōshi-chō; admission ¥500; 8am-4.30pm Nov-Feb, to 5pm Mar, 7.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct) is the largest wooden building in the world. Unbelievably, the present structure, rebuilt in 1709, is a mere two-thirds of the size of the original! The Daibutsu (Great Buddha) contained within is one of the largest bronze figures in the world and was originally cast in 746. The present statue, recast in the Edo period, stands just over 16m high and consists of 437 tonnes of bronze and 130kg of gold.
The Daibutsu is an image of Dainichi Buddha, the cosmic Buddha believed to give rise to all worlds and their respective Buddhas. Historians believe that Emperor Shōmu ordered the building of the Buddha as a charm against smallpox, which ravaged Japan in preceding years. Over the centuries the statue took quite a beating from earthquakes and fires, losing its head a couple of times (note the slight difference in colour between the head and the body).
As you circle the statue towards the back, you’ll see a wooden column with a hole through its base. Popular belief maintains that those who can squeeze through the hole, which is exactly the same size as one of the Great Buddha’s nostrils, are ensured of enlightenment. There’s usually a line of children waiting to give it a try and parents waiting to snap their pictures. Adults sometimes try it, but it’s really something for the kids. A hint for big kids: it’s a lot easier to go through with both arms held above your head – and someone on either end to push and pull helps, too.
Nigatsu-dō & Sangatsu-dō
The Nigatsu-dō and Sangatsu-dō are halls (almost subtemples) of Tōdai-ji. They are an easy walk east (uphill from the Daibutsu-den). You can walk straight east up the hill, but we recommend taking a hard left out of the Daibutsu-den exit, following the enclosure past the pond and turning up the hill. This pathway is among the most scenic walks in all of Nara. For details, see the Nara-kōen Walking Tour.
As you reach the plaza at the top of the hill, the Nigatsu-dō (22-5511; 406-1 Zōshi-chō; admission free) is the temple hall with the