Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [320]
A short walk south of Nigatsu-dō is Sangatsu-dō (admission ¥500), which is the oldest building in the Tōdai-ji complex. This hall contains a small collection of fine statues from the Nara period. It’s open the same hours as the Daibutsu-den.
KASUGA TAISHA
This shrine (22-7788; 160 Kasugano-chō; admission free; dawn-dusk) was founded in the 8th century by the Fujiwara family and was completely rebuilt every 20 years according to Shintō tradition until the end of the 19th century. It lies at the foot of the hill in a pleasant, wooded setting with herds of sacred deer awaiting handouts. As with similar shrines in Japan, you will find several subshrines around the main hall.
The approaches to the shrine are lined with hundreds of lanterns, and there are many hundreds more in the shrine itself. The lantern festivals held twice a year at the shrine are a major attraction (for details see Mantōrō, opposite).
The Hōmotsu-den (Treasure Hall; admission ¥420; 9am-4pm) is just north of the entrance torii for the shrine. The hall displays Shintō ceremonial regalia and equipment used in bugaku, nō and gagaku performances.
While you’re in the area, it’s worth walking a few minutes south to nearby Wakamiya-jinja.
SHIN-YAKUSHI-JI
This temple (22-3736; 1352 Takabatake-chō; admission ¥600; 9am-5pm) was founded by Empress Kōmyō in 747 in thanks for her husband’s recovery from an eye disease. Most of the buildings were destroyed or have been reconstructed, but the present main hall dates from the 8th century. The hall contains sculptures of Yakushi Nyorai (Healing Buddha) and a set of 12 divine generals.
It’s about 15 minutes’ walk from Kasuga Taisha/Wakamiya-jinja (see left); follow the trail south through the woods. When you come to the main street, look for the small signs in English leading up (south) into a suburban neighbourhood.
NARA CITY MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Around the corner from Shin-Yakushi-ji, this small museum (Nara-shi Shashin Bijutsukan; 22-9811; 600-1 Takabatake-chō; admission ¥500; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon) is worth a visit if you are in the area or interested in a particular exhibit (there is no permanent collection). Ask at any of the tourist offices before making the trek. See Shin-Yakushi-ji for directions. Enter by 4.30pm.
Naramachi
South of Sanjō-dōri and Sarusawa-ike pond you will find Naramachi, with many well-preserved machiya and kura. It’s a nice place for a stroll before or after hitting the big sights of Nara-kōen, and there are several good restaurants in the area to entice the hungry traveller.
Highlights of Naramachi include the Naramachi Shiryō-kan Museum (22-5509; 14 Nishishinya-chō; admission free; 10am-4pm Sat & Sun), which has a decent collection of bric-a-brac from the area, including a display of old Japanese coins and bills. Naramachi Koushi-no-Ie (23-4820; 44 Gangōji-chō; admission free; 9am-5pm, closed Mon) is a traditional Japanese house that you can enter and explore.
While you’re in the neighbourhood, check out the Naramachi Monogatari-kan (26-3476; 2-1 Nakanoshinya-chō; admission free; 10am-5pm), an interesting little gallery that holds some worthwhile exhibitions.
Imanishike Shoin (23-2256; 24-3 Fukuchiin-chō; admission ¥350; 10am-4pm, closed Mon) is a lovely old house dating to the Muromachi period and is built in the shoin, or library, style. There are a few small gardens here that are well framed by the house itself. Tea is served here. If you are a fan of sake, stop in next door at the Imanishi Seibei Shōten, an old sake merchant where for ¥400 you can sample five kinds of sake. Enter by 3.30pm.
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TOURS
Nara Kōtsū (22-5263) runs daily bus tours on a variety of routes, two of which include Nara city sights only and two of which include more distant sights like Hōryū-ji and the burial mounds around Asuka (Click here). Prices for