Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [321]
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
The following is a brief list of Nara’s most important festivals. Because the dates for some of these festivals vary, it’s best to check with the Nara or Kyoto tourist information offices.
January
Yamayaki (Grass Burning Festival) In early January (the day before Seijin-no-hi or Coming-of-Age Day), this festival commemorates a feud many centuries ago between the monks of Tōdai-ji and Kōfuku-ji: Wakakusa-yama is set alight at 6pm, with an accompanying display of fireworks.
February
Mantōrō (Lantern Festival) Held in early February at Kasuga Taisha at 6pm, this festival involves the lighting of 3000 stone and bronze lanterns around Kasuga Taisha – it’s impossibly atmospheric, as you can imagine. A bugaku dance also takes place in the Apple Garden on the last day. This festival is also held around 14 August in the O-Bon holiday period.
March
Omizutori (Water-Drawing Ceremony) On the evening of 12 March, the monks of Tōdai-ji parade huge flaming torches around the balcony of Nigatsu-dō and rain down embers on the spectators to purify them. The water-drawing ceremony is performed after midnight.
May
Takigi Onō (Firelight nō performances) Open-air performances of nō held after dark by the light of blazing torches at Kōfuku-ji and Kasuga Taisha, on 11 and 12 May.
October
Shika-no-Tsunokiri (Deer Antler Cutting) Those deer in Nara-kōen are pursued in a type of elegant rodeo into the Roku-en (deer enclosure) close to Kasuga Taisha on Sundays and holidays in October. They are then wrestled to the ground and their antlers sawn off. Tourist brochures hint that this is to avoid personal harm, though it’s not clear whether they are referring to the deer fighting each other or the deer mugging the tourists.
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SLEEPING
Although Nara is often visited as a day trip from Kyoto, it is pleasant to spend the night here and this allows for a more relaxing pace.
Budget
Nara-ken Seishōnen Kaikan Youth Hostel (/fax 22-5540; www6.ocn.ne.jp/~naseikan, in Japanese; 1-3-1 Hōren Sahoyama; dm from ¥2650;) This YH is older and less pristine than the Nara Youth Hostel (following), but the warm and friendly staff more than makes up for this. The rooms are large and fairly well maintained; breakfast/dinner is ¥300/900. From bus stand 9 at JR Nara Station or bus stand 13 at Kintetsu Nara Station, take bus 12, 13, 131 or 140 and get off at the Ikuei-gakuen bus stop, from which it’s a five-minute walk. The information offices have maps and directions.
Nara Youth Hostel (22-1334; www.jyh.gr.jp/nara/english/neweng.html; 4-3-2 Hōren Sahoyama; dm from ¥3150;) This clean YH is easy to get to and well run. The reception here is efficient and the place is a relatively convenient base for exploring Nara. From bus stand 7 at JR Nara Station or bus stand 13 at Kintetsu Nara Station, take bus 108, 109, 111, 113 or 115 and get off at the Shieikyūjō-mae bus stop – the hostel is almost directly next to the stop.
Ryokan Seikansō (/fax 22-2670; 29 Higashikitsuji-chō; per person without bathroom from ¥4200; ) This traditional ryokan has reasonable rates and a good Naramachi location. The rooms are clean and spacious with shared bathrooms and a large communal bathtub. The management is used to foreign guests. The lovely Japanese garden is the icing on the cake here.
Ryokan Matsumae (22-3686; fax 26-3927; www.matsumae.co.jp/english/index_e.html; 28-1 Higashiterahayashi-chō; per person without bathroom from ¥5250; ) This friendly little ryokan lays claim to an incredibly convenient location in Naramachi, a short walk from all the sights. The rooms are typical of a ryokan: