Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [322]
Midrange
Super Hotel (20-9000; fax 20-9008; www.superhotel.co.jp/s_hotels/jrnara/jrnara.html, in Japanese; 500-1 Sanjō-chō; s/d ¥5280/7280; ) Directly across from JR Nara Station, the Super Hotel is part of a no-frills hotel chain that offers clean, small, business-hotel rooms at very reasonable prices. As with other business hotels, all rooms have small en-suite bathrooms. If all you need is a clean place to lay your head, this is a good choice. LAN internet access.
Nara Washington Hotel Plaza (27-0410; http://nara.wh-at.com; 31-1 Shimosanjō-chō; s/d/tw from ¥6900/12,000/12,000; ) Also very conveniently located right downtown, this reliable hotel is another excellent choice in this price range. Rooms are clean and comfortable and there is LAN internet access. Right outside are endless restaurants to choose from.
Hotel Fujita Nara (23-8111; fax 22-0255; www.fujita-nara.com/e/index.html; 47-1 Shimosanjō-chō; s/d/tw from ¥7500/11,000/12,600; ) Right smack in downtown Nara and close to both main train stations, this efficient midrange hotel hits all the right notes: clean rooms, reasonable prices and some English-speaking staff. It’s a good choice for those who want a conveniently located hotel. LAN internet access.
Top End
HOTELS
Nara Hotel (26-3300; fax 23-5252; www.narahotel.co.jp/english/index.html; 1096 Takabatake-chō; s/tw from ¥18,480/33,495; ) This grande dame of Nara hotels is a classic, with high ceilings and the smell of polished wood all around. All the rooms are spacious and comfortable with big beds. Unfortunately, some of the bathrooms have cramped unit baths. The rooms in the Shinkan (new wing) are nice, but we recommend the Honkan (main building) for its great retro atmosphere. LAN internet access.
RYOKAN
Ryokan Tsubakisō (22-5330; fax 27-3811; 35 Tsubai-chō; per person with breakfast from ¥13,000; ) Popular with foreign guests, this excellent ryokan is a homey and wonderful place to stay in Nara. The bedrooms and bathrooms are clean and well maintained and the owner can prepare vegetarian meals upon request.
Tsukihi-tei (26-2021; fax 20-3003; http://homepage3.nifty.com/tukihitei, in Japanese; 158 Kasugano-chō; per person with 2 meals from ¥31,500; ) Hidden in a valley above Nara-kōen, this traditional high-class ryokan offers fine rooms and excellent service. If you don’t mind being a bit of a distance from the centre of town, this hideaway is a tempting choice. LAN internet access.
Return to beginning of chapter
EATING
Nara is chock-a-block with good restaurants, most of which are located in the area around Kintetsu Nara Station. There aren’t as many good choices in Nara-kōen, but we list one spot halfway between Tōdai-ji and Kasuga Taisha.
Don (27-7080; 13-2 Higashimukiminami-machi; donburi from ¥480; 11am-8pm) In the Higashi-muki Arcade, the Don serves the eponymous donburi (rice bowl with various toppings) for absurdly low prices. It’s healthy Japanese fast food and there’s a picture menu to make ordering easier. It’s opposite McDonald’s, in more ways than one. English menu.
Nonohana Ohka (22-1139; 13 Nakashinya-chō; meals from ¥1000, coffee & tea average ¥500-600; 11am-5pm, closed Mon) With indoor and outdoor garden seating, this cafe is one of our favourite places for a drink or a light meal when in Naramachi. The cakes are usually very good here and they go down a treat with the excellent tea. It’s easy to spot, with a glass front. English menu.
Kasugano (26-3311; 494 Zōshi-chō; meals from ¥600; 9am-5pm; ) If you’re exploring Nara-kōen, lunchtime often finds you somewhere between Tōdai-ji and Kasuga Taisha. A good choice in this area is Kasugano, a restaurant–souvenir shop at the base of Wakakusa-yama. Take a seat in the woodsy annexe cafe section here rather than at the main tables in the shop area (the menu is the same). Dishes include things like tempura soba (¥800). There is an English and vegetarian menu. It’s the third shop house from