Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [323]
Kyōshō-An (27-7715; 26-3 Hashimoto-chō; green tea & sweets from ¥650; 11am-7.30pm, closed Mon) This simple shop is a great place to sample Japanese tea and sweets. In the hot months, we recommend an Uji gōri (sweetened green tea over shaved ice; ¥600). It’s opposite Nanto Bank, up a flight of white steps – look for the pictures of tea and sweets. English menu.
Okaru (24-3686; 13-2 Higashimukiminami-machi; okonomiyaki from ¥680; 11am-10pm, closed Wed) We like this homey spot in the Higashi-muki Arcade for simple okonomiyaki. If you can’t decide what to order, look at the food models in the window. It’s not far from the Don (opposite) – look for a small English sign.
Tonkatsu Ganko (25-4129; 19-2 Higashimukinaka-machi; meals from ¥680; 11am-10pm) This popular tonkatsu specialist is in the Higashi-muki Arcade, around the corner from Kintetsu Nara. We recommend the hirekatsu zen (fillet pork cutlet set; ¥1080 lunchtime, ¥1280 dinnertime). Refills of rice, cabbage and pickles are free. It’s next to Mr Donuts and there’s an English menu.
Drink Drank (27-6206; 8 Hashimoto-chō; smoothies from ¥650, lunch sets ¥750-1000; 11am-8pm, closed Wed) This modern cafe-eatery serves a variety of fresh-fruit drinks and light lunches including sandwiches and soup. If you want a break from Japanese food and feel like something light and casual, this might be the move. English menu.
Ten Ten Café (26-6770; 19 Wakido-chō; meals from ¥700; 11.30am-6pm) Operated by a singer-songwriter, and venue for lots of live-music happenings, this open and airy cafe is a fine spot for a relaxing drink or light meal in the Naramachi area. It serves a daily lunch special for ¥750. Look for the English sign and plants out front. English menu.
Shizuka (27-8030; 59-11 Noboriōji-chō; rice dishes from ¥892; 11am-8pm, closed Tue) Shizuka is a cosy little traditional restaurant that serves a Nara speciality known as kamameshi (rice cooked in a small iron pot with various vegetables, meat or fish thrown in). It’s in a two-storey building that looks like a private home, with a white-and-black paper lantern-sign. English menu.
Mellow Café (27-9099; 1-8 Konishi-chō; lunch from ¥980; 11am-11.30pm) Located down a narrow alley (look for the palm tree), this open-plan cafe attempts to create the ambience of a South Seas resort in downtown Nara. Offerings include international and pan-Asian cuisine. Lunch specials are displayed in front to help you choose and order. There’s an English sign and menu.
Bikkuri Udon Miyoshino (22-5239; 27 Hashimoto-chō; meals average no more than ¥1000; 11am-8.30pm, closed Wed) Miyoshino does good-value sets of typical Japanese fare – noodles and rice dishes predominate. Stop by and check the daily lunch specials on display outside. English menu.
Tempura Asuka (26-4308; 11 Shōnami-chō; meals ¥1500-5000; 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm, closed Mon) This reliable restaurant serves attractive tempura and sashimi sets in a relatively casual atmosphere. At lunchtime try its nicely presented yumei-dono bentō (a box filled with a variety of tasty Japanese foods) for ¥1600. There is an English sign/menu.
Beni-e (22-9493; 1 Higashimukiminami-machi; meals from ¥1600; 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-9pm, closed Mon) If you want tempura without a lot of distractions, this tiny downtown tempura specialist is likely to satisfy. It serves good tempura sets for ¥1600/2100/2600 (hana, tsuki and yuki lunch sets, respectively). It’s located a little back from Higashi-muki Arcade, behind Regal Shoes; go down the alley and look for the red writing above the door. English menu.
Lastly, if you just need a quick cuppa or an eat-in or takeaway sandwich, there is a branch of the coffee shop Doutor in the Konishi Arcade (a five-minute walk from Kintetsu Nara).
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DRINKING
Woo Koo BAR (27-5959; 499-1 Sanjō-chō; 6pm-late) If you want to meet the locals (both Japanese and expats), this friendly pub is a good choice. They serve a variety of beer including Guinness and Belgian brews, as well as bar food like fish and chips.