Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [324]
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bus
There is an overnight bus service between Tokyo’s Shinjuku (Shinjuku highway bus terminal) and Nara (one way/return ¥8400/15,120). In Nara, call Nara Kōtsū Bus (22-5110; www.narakotsu.co.jp/kousoku/index.html, in Japanese) or check with the Nara City Tourist Center for more details. In Tokyo, call Kantō Bus (03-3371-1225; www.kanto-bus.co.jp, in Japanese) or visit the Shinjuku highway bus terminal in person.
Train
KYOTO
The Kintetsu line, which runs between Kintetsu Kyoto Station (in Kyoto Station) and Kintetsu Nara Station, is the fastest and most convenient way to travel between Nara and Kyoto. There are tokkyū (¥1110, 33 minutes) and kyūkō (¥610, 40 minutes). The tokkyū trains run directly and are very comfortable; the kyūkō usually require a change at Saidai-ji.
The JR Nara line also connects JR Kyoto Station with JR Nara Station (JR miyakoji kaisoku, ¥690, 41 minutes) and there are several departures an hour during the day.
OSAKA
The Kintetsu Nara line connects Osaka (Kintetsu Namba Station) with Nara (Kintetsu Nara Station). Kaisoku and futsū services take about 36 minutes and cost ¥540. Tokkyū services do the journey in five minutes less but cost almost double, making them a poor option.
The JR Kansai line links Osaka (Namba and Tennō-ji Stations) and Nara (JR Nara Station). A kaisoku connects Namba and JR Nara Station (¥540, 36 minutes) and Tennō-ji and JR Nara Station (¥450, 30 minutes).
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GETTING AROUND
To/From the Airport
Nara is served by Kansai International Airport (KIX). There is a limousine bus service (Nara Kōtsū; 22-5110; www.narakotsu.co.jp/kousoku/limousine/nara _kanku.html, in Japanese) between Nara and the airport with departures roughly every hour in both directions (¥1800, 85 minutes). At Kansai International Airport ask at the information counter in the arrivals hall, and in Nara visit the ticket office in the building across from Kintetsu Nara Station. Reservations are a good idea.
For domestic flights, there are limousine buses (Nara Kōtsū; 22-5110; www.narakotsu.co.jp/kousoku/limousine/nara_itami.html, in Japanese) to/from Osaka’s Itami airport (¥1440, 65 minutes).
Bicycle
Nara is a convenient size for getting around on a bicycle. Eki Renta Car Kansai (26-3929; 1-1 Honmachi, Sanjō; 8am-8pm) rents regular bicycles for ¥500 a day. At the time of writing, Nara Station was being rebuilt; it’s uncertain where the Eki Renta Car office will be, so ask at the tourist information office in the station.
Bus
Most of the area around Nara-kōen is covered by two circular bus routes: bus 1 runs anticlockwise and bus 2 runs clockwise. There’s a ¥180 flat fare. You can easily see the main sights in the park on foot and use the bus as an option if you are pushed for time or get tired of walking. If you plan to ride a lot, the one-day Free Pass costs ¥500.
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AROUND NARA
Southern Nara-ken was the birthplace of imperial rule and is rich in historical sites that are easily accessible as day trips from Osaka, Kyoto or Nara, provided that you make an early start. Of particular historical interest are the kofun that mark the graves of Japan’s first emperors; these are concentrated around Asuka. There are also several isolated temples where you can escape the crowds that plague Nara’s city centre. Further afield, the mountaintop town of Yoshino is one of Japan’s cherry-blossom meccas.
Easily reached by rail, Yamato-Yagi and Sakurai serve as useful transport hubs for the region. Keep in mind that the Kintetsu line is far more convenient than JR for most of the destinations in this section. Kintetsu sells a variety of special tickets that may be useful to those planning extensive travel in the area, including the Nara Sekkai Isan Furii Kippu (Nara World Heritage Free Ticket) that allows unlimited travel on Kintetsu trains in the area for a period of three days. The cost is ¥3000/2800/4848 when travel starts in Kyoto/Osaka/Nagoya.