Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [325]
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TEMPLES SOUTHWEST OF NARA
While Nara city has some impressive ancient temples and Buddhist statues, if you want to go back to the roots of Japanese Buddhism it’s necessary to head to three temples southwest of Nara: Hōryū-ji, Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji.
Hōryū-ji is one of the most important temples in all of Japan, largely for historical reasons. However, its appeal is more academic than aesthetic, and it’s quite a slog to get there. Thus, for most people we recommend a half-day trip to Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji, which are easy to get to from Nara and very pleasant for strolling.
If you do want to visit all three temples, we recommend heading to Hōryū-ji first (it’s the most distant from the centre of Nara) and then continuing by bus 52, 97 or 98 (¥560, 39 minutes) up to Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji, which are a 10-minute walk apart (for more on getting to/from these temples, see the respective entries). Obviously, this can also be done in reverse. Of all the buses that ply the southwest temple route, bus 97 is the most convenient, with English announcements and route maps.
Hōryū-ji
This temple (0742-75-2555; admission ¥1000; 8am-5pm 22 Feb-3 Nov, to 4.30pm 4 Nov-21 Feb) was founded in 607 by Prince Shōtoku, considered by many to be the patron saint of Japanese Buddhism. Legend has it that Shōtoku, moments after birth, stood up and started praying. Hōryū-ji is renowned not only as the oldest temple in Japan but also as a repository for some of the country’s rarest treasures. Several of the temple’s wooden buildings have survived earthquakes and fires to become the oldest of their kind in the world.
The temple is divided into two parts, Sai-in (West Temple) and Tō-in (East Temple). The entrance ticket allows admission to Sai-in, Tō-in and the Great Treasure Hall. A detailed map is provided and a guidebook is available in English and several other languages.
The main approach to the temple proceeds from the south along a tree-lined avenue and continues through the Nandai-mon and Chū-mon before entering the Sai-in precinct. As you enter this precinct, you’ll see the Kondō (Main Hall) on your right and a pagoda on your left.
The Kondō houses several treasures, including the triad of the Buddha Sakyamuni, with two attendant bodhisattvas. Though it is one of Japan’s great Buddhist treasures, it’s dimly lit and barely visible – you will need a torch (flashlight) to see it. Likewise, the pagoda contains clay images depicting scenes from the life of Buddha, which are barely visible without a torch.
On the eastern side of Sai-in are the two concrete buildings of the Daihōzō-in (Great Treasure Hall), containing numerous treasures from Hōryū-ji’s long history.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
To get to Hōryū-ji, take the JR Kansai line from JR Nara Station to Hōryū-ji Station (¥210, 10 minutes). From there, bus 72 shuttles the short distance between the station and the bus stop Hōryū-ji Monmae (¥170, eight minutes). Alternatively, take bus 52 or 97 from either JR Nara Station or Kintetsu Nara Station and get off at the Hōryū-ji-mae stop (¥760, 60 minutes). Leave the bus stop and walk west for about 50m, cross the road and you will see the tree-lined approach to the temple.
Yakushi-ji
This temple (0742-33-6001; admission ¥500; 8.30am-5pm) houses some of the most beautiful Buddhist images in all Japan. It was established by Emperor Temmu in 680. With the exception of the East Pagoda, which dates to 730, the present buildings either date from the 13th century or are very recent reconstructions.
Entering from the south, turn to the right before going through the gate with guardian figures and walk to the Tōin-dō (East Hall), which houses a famous Shō-Kannon image, built in the 7th century and showing obvious influences of Indian sculptural styles. Exit the Tōin-dō and walk west to the Kondō (Main Hall).
The Kondō was rebuilt in 1976 and houses several images, including the famous Yakushi Triad (the Buddha Yakushi flanked by the