Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [340]
Naikū
The Inner Shrine is thought to date from the 3rd century and enshrines the sun goddess, Amaterasu-Ōmikami, who is considered the ancestral goddess of the imperial family and the guardian deity of the Japanese nation. Naikū is held in even higher reverence than Gekū because it houses the sacred mirror of the emperor, one of the three imperial regalia (the other two are the sacred beads and the sacred sword).
A stall just before the entrance to the shrine provides the same English leaflet given out at Gekū. Next to this stall is the Uji-bashi, which leads over the crystal-clear Isuzu-gawa into the shrine. Just off the main gravel path is a Mitarashi, the place for pilgrims to purify themselves in the river before entering the shrine.
The path continues along an avenue lined with towering cryptomeria trees to the Goshōden, the main shrine building. As at Gekū, you can only catch a glimpse of the top of the structure here, as four rows of wooden fences obstruct the view. If you’re tempted to jump the fence when nobody’s around, think again – they’re watching you on closed-circuit TV cameras not so cleverly disguised as trees!
To get to Naikū, take bus 51 or 55 from bus stop 11 outside Ise-shi Station or the stop on the main road in front of Gekū (¥410, 12 minutes). Note that bus stop 11 is about 100m past the main bus stop outside Ise-shi Station (walk south on the main street). Get off at the Naikū-mae stop. From Naikū there are buses back to Ise-shi Station via Gekū (¥410, 18 minutes from bus stop 2). Alternatively, a taxi between Ise-shi Station/Gekū and Naikū costs about ¥2000.
Festivals & Events
Ise-jingū is Japan’s most sacred shrine and it’s not surprising that it’s a favourite destination for hatsu-mōde (first shrine visit of the new year). Most of the action takes place in the first three days of the year, when millions of worshippers pack the area and accommodation is booked out for months in advance.
The Kagura-sai, celebrated in early April and mid-September, is a good chance to see performances of kagura (sacred dance), bugaku, nō and Shintō music.
Sleeping
Ise-Shima Youth Hostel (; 0599-55-0226; ise@jyh.gr.jp; 1219-82 Anagawa, Isobe-chō, Shima-shi; r per person with breakfast from ¥4620; ) Built on a hill overlooking an attractive bay, this is a great place to stay for budget travellers. It’s close to Anagawa Station on the Kintetsu line south of Ise-shi (only futsū trains stop). Walk east out of the station along the waterfront road; it’s uphill on the right.
Ise City Hotel (; 28-2111; 1-11-31 Fukiage; s/tw ¥6510/13,650; ) This is a good business hotel with small, clean rooms and a convenient location less than 10 minutes’ walk from the station. Some staff members speak a bit of English. To get there from Ise-shi Station, take a left (east) outside the station, walk past a JTB travel agency, take a left at the first traffic light, and cross the tracks. You’ll see it on the left.
Hoshide-kan (; 28-2377; fax 27-2830; 2-15-2 Kawasaki; r per person with/without 2 meals ¥7500/5000; ) Also in Ise-shi, this is a quaint wooden ryokan with some nice traditional touches. Go straight past Ise City Hotel, and it’s on the right (there is a small English sign). It’s at the second light (400m) past the train tracks. Look for the large traditional building with cedars poking out of tiny gardens. Free internet.
Ise Pearl Pier Hotel (; 26-1111; www.pearlpier.com; 2-26-22 Miyajiri; s/d/tw ¥7875/12,600/16,800; ) Next to the Ise City Hotel (opposite), the Pearl Pier is a little newer, a little more spacious and a little more expensive. The ‘deluxe’ rooms (single/twin ¥8400/18,900) may be worth the cash if you’ve been feeling cramped in business hotels.
Eating & Drinking
Daiki (; 28-0281; meals from ¥1500; 11am-9pm) Our favourite place to eat in Ise-shi bills itself as ‘Japan’s most famous restaurant’. It’s a great place to sample seafood, including ise-ebi (Japanese lobsters), served as set meals for ¥5000; ask for the ise-ebi teishoku and specify