Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [341]
Tamaya (; 24-0105; 2-17-23 Kawasaki; 7pm-midnight, closed Mon & 3rd Thu every month) In the Kawasaki Kaiwai district, you’ll find this excellent bar-restaurant in an old kura. This is a friendly spot for a drink or a light meal. It’s just down a narrow street off Kawasaki Kaiwai on the left as you walk north (look for a white-and-red sign on a utility pole that reads ‘Tamaya The Lounge’). English menu.
At Naikū you’ll find plenty of good restaurants in the Okage-yokochō Arcade, just outside the shrine (when walking from the bus stop towards the shrine, look to the left and you will see the covered arcade).
In the arcade Nikōdōshiten (; 24-4409; 19 Ujiimazaike-chō; 11am-4pm, closed Thu) is a good place to try some of the local specialities in a rough, roadhouse atmosphere. Ise-udon (thick noodles in a dark broth; small/large bowl ¥420/570) is the speciality. For a bigger meal, try the ise-udon teishoku (ise-udon with rice and side dishes; ¥1000). The restaurant is 100m up from the southern (shrine) end of the arcade.
Also in the Okage-yokochō, Isuzugawa Café (; 23-9002; 52 Ujiimazaike-chō;10am-5pm) is an attractive cafe overlooking the Isuzu-gawa. The tatami seating makes it a relaxing spot to sit with a cup of coffee and watch the birds swim past. Coffee is ‘strong’, ‘mild’ or ‘ice’ (¥400) and cakes start at ¥200. It’s about four minutes’ walk from the shrine end of the arcade, on the right. Look for a low English sign; it’s in the building just before a camphor tree.
Getting There & Away
There are rail connections between Ise-shi and Nagoya, Osaka and Kyoto on both the JR and the Kintetsu lines. For those without a Japan Rail Pass, the Kintetsu line is by far the most convenient way to go and the tokkyū are comfortable and fast.
Kintetsu fares and travel times to/from Ise-shi include Nagoya (tokkyū, ¥2690, 81 minutes), Osaka (Uehonmachi or Namba Stations, tokkyū, ¥3030, 106 minutes) and Kyoto (tokkyū, ¥3520, 123 minutes).
There are two stations in Ise: Ise-shi Station and Uji-Yamada Station, which are only a few hundred metres apart (most trains stop at both). Get off at Ise-shi Station for destinations and accommodation described in this section.
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TOBA
The serrated coast of the Shima-hantō is perfect for the cultivation of pearls and Toba is one of the main centres of Japan’s pearl industry. It’s also a popular spot for city folk to soak up a bit of coastal ambience. The two main attractions here are Toba Aquarium and Mikimoto Pearl Island. There’s no denying that Toba is touristy, but it can be fun if you’re in the mood.
Toba Aquarium (; Toba Suizoku-kan; 0599-25-2555; 3-3-6 Toba; admission ¥2400; 9am-4.30pm) has some interesting fish and marine-mammal displays and some good shows. It would make a good destination for those with children or if the rain puts a damper on outdoor activities. It’s about 10 minutes’ walk southeast of the Kintetsu and JR Toba Stations; it’s on the seafront, across the main road (Rte 42).
Mikimoto Pearl Island (; 0599-25-2028; 1-7-1 Toba; admission ¥1500; 8.30am-5pm, 9am-4.30pm Dec) is a monument to Kokichi Michimoto, who devoted his life to producing cultured pearls. The demonstration halls show all the oyster tricks from growing and seeding to selecting, drilling and threading the finished product. The island is across a bridge about five minutes’ walk southeast of Kintetsu and JR Toba Stations.
Ise-wan Ferry Co Ltd (0599-26-3335; www.isewanferry.co.jp) has ferry connections from Toba-ko port to Irako on Atsumi-hantō in Aichi-ken (¥1500, 55 minutes). Boats leave from Ise-wan ferry terminal. Toba can be reached from Ise in 16 minutes by the Kintetsu line (kyūkō, ¥320) or the JR line (futsū, ¥230).
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AGO-WAN, KASHIKOJIMA & GOZA
A short train ride south of Ise-shi, Ago-wan is