Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [348]
The chimney of the Tōkei-dō (; 64-2147; 1527 Imbe; admission free;10am-4pm) kiln is visible from the station, straight ahead on the main road that leads north from the station. There are several galleries on this street, and many more right and left at the end of it. Turning right at the end of this street brings you to Amatsu-jinja (), the area’s shrine, decorated with Bizen-yaki figures of the animals of the Chinese zodiac.
Several kilns in the area offer the chance to try your hand at making your own masterpiece. Advance reservations are required. Some English is spoken at Bishū Gama (; 64-1160; bisyu@gift.or.jp; 302-2 Imbe Bizen-shi; 9am-3pm), where a spin on the wheel will set you back between ¥2625 and ¥3675. To get here, turn right out of the station and then walk about 800m until you come to the intersection with the next main road – the kiln is to the left of the intersection on a smaller road. It takes between an hour and 90 minutes to sculpt your piece, but you’ll need to arrange to have it shipped to you after it’s been fired. Back at the station, the Bizen-yaki Traditional Industries Hall (; classes ¥3150-3675; 10am-5pm) also has classes on weekends and public holidays.
There is one direct train an hour to Imbe from Okayama (¥570, 40 minutes) on the Akō line (), bound for Banshū-Akō () and Aioi ().
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HATTŌJI
0869 / pop 42,000
Hattōji is a tranquil farming village on a plateau in the east of the prefecture. It’s many miles from the nearest town, and coming here feels a bit like going back in time. There are no shops, or traffic, and there’s no noise.
The Hattōji International Villa (; 85-0254; 1193 Kagami Yoshinaga-chō Bizen-shi) is a restored farmhouse that was one of several places established by the prefectural government in the late 1980s as tourist accommodation for foreigners. The project became the victim of budget cuts in spring 2009, but the popular villa will remain open. For reservations, contact the International Villa Group (086-256-2535; fax 086-256-2576; www.harenet.ne.jp/villa) in Okayama. Rates are ¥3500 per person.
Accommodation is also available at Hattōji Furusatokan (; 85-0333; cottages per person ¥3500), where there is a restaurant. The only other place at which to eat is Nozomigaoka (; 85-0252; sporadic hours, closed evenings), run by a Japanese cowboy, where the duck nabe (hotpot) has a good reputation. If you’re staying at the villa, you’ll want to stock up on food in Yoshinaga.
Infrequent buses (¥200, 30 minutes) run to Hattōji from Yoshinaga Station on the JR San-yō line, accessible by hourly trains from Okayama.
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KURASHIKI
086 / pop 476,000
Kurashiki’s main attraction is an area of historic buildings by the old canal, where a picturesque group of black-and-white warehouses has been converted into museums.
In the feudal era the warehouses were used to store rice brought by boat from the surrounding countryside. Later, the town became an important textile centre, under the Kurabō Textile Company. Owner Ōhara Magosaburō built up a collection of European art, and opened the Ōhara Museum in the 1920s. It was the first of the town’s museums, and is still the best. Many of Kurashiki’s attractions are closed on Mondays.
Orientation
It’s about 1km from the station to the historic Bikan quarter (), where all the old buildings and museums are clustered. All the tourist attractions are within a few minutes’ walk of each other, along the canal.
Information
Just out of the station and to the right, the tourist information counter (424-1220; 2nd fl, Kurashiki City Plaza, 1-7-2 Achi; 9am-7pm) has English-speaking staff and free internet access. The Kurashikikan (422-0542; 1-4-8 Chuō; 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-5.15pm Nov-Mar), by the Naka-bashi bridge at the bend in the canal, also has a tourist information office and rest area.
Sights
Between the station and the canal area is the beautifully