Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [349]
Marked by its grand classical facade, the Ōhara Museum of Art (422-0005; 1-1-15 Chuō; admission ¥1000; 9am-5pm, closed Mon) is Kurashiki’s premier museum, housing the predominantly European art collection amassed by local textile magnate Ōhara Magosaburō (1880–1943). The museum was one of the first in Japan to be devoted to modern European art. Works by Picasso, Cézanne, El Greco and Modigliani are all here (generally represented by one painting each), along with a lot of other people you’ve probably not heard of. The museum is one of the town’s biggest attractions for Japanese tourists, but if you’ve spent much time in the major galleries of Europe or America you may find the collection slightly disappointing.
The valid-all-day ticket gets you into the museum’s handicraft and Asiatic collections, as well as the contemporary Japanese collection housed in an annexe behind the main building.
Housed in an attractive complex of rice warehouses dating from the late 18th century, the Kurashiki Museum of Folk-craft (422-1637; 1-4-11 Chuō; admission ¥700; 9am-5pm Mar-Nov, 9am-4.15pm Dec-Feb, closed Mon) features interesting exhibits of ceramics, glassware, textiles and furniture.
A little further down the same street is the Japan Rural Toy Museum (422-8058; 1-4-16 Chuō; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm), where four rooms are crammed with traditional kites, dolls and spinning tops from all over Japan.
A short walk from the canal area are the steep stone steps that lead up to Achi-jinja (425-4898; 12-1 Honmachi) and the Tsurugata-yama-kōen, a park that overlooks the old area of town.
IVY SQUARE
This was once the site of Ōhara’s Kurabō textile factories. The company moved into more modern premises a long time ago, and the red-brick factory buildings (dating from 1889) now house a hotel, restaurants, shops and yet more museums. You’ve come to the right place if you’ve been dying to hear mechanical music-box concerts (Kurashiki Ivy Square Orgel Musée; ticket ¥500; hourly from 10am), or itching to learn all about the history of the Japanese textile industry – which you’ll discover at Kurabō Memorial Museum (422-0011; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm) – or yearning to learn about Kojima Torajirō, the European-style painter who helped Ōhara build up his art collection; head to Kojima Torajirō Memorial Museum (422-0005; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm, closed Mon;) to immerse yourself in his life.
Sleeping
Kurashiki is a good place to experience a night in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn). Alternatively, it’s just 14 minutes by train to Okayama, where there’s a wide range of accommodation and eating options available.
Kurashiki Youth Hostel (422-7355; www.jyh.or.jp/english/chugoku/kurasiki/index.html; 1537-1 Mukōyama; dm members/nonmembers ¥2940/3540; ) South of the canal area and a steep 25-minute climb from Ivy Sq, this tidy hostel’s hilltop location overlooks the Bikan area. Meals are available. From the station, take bus 6 and get off at Shimin-kaikan-mae (), then walk up through the cemetery.
Dormy Inn Kurashiki (426-5489; fax 426-5455; in-kurashiki@dormy-hotels.com; 3-21-11 Achi; s/tw from ¥5000/8000; ) A new hotel between the station and tourist district. Comfy rooms are complemented by an onsen on the top floor.
Tōyoko Inn (430-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com; 2-10-20 Achi; s/tw ¥5250/6300; ) A short walk from the station, next door to a Lawson convenience store on the main road to the old part of town. There’s not much room to spare here, but it’s clean and cosy enough. You’ll find LAN internet in all rooms, and PC consoles in the lobby. A small breakfast is included.
Kurashiki Sakura Stay (435-7001; www.sakurastay.jp, in Japanese;