Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [353]
SIGHTS
The modern town stretches east from the station along a thin corridor between the railway tracks and the sea. Most of the places of interest are on the other side of the tracks, in the series of steep flag-stoned streets that ladder the hillside. The Historical Temple Walk () is a well-signed trail that takes in 25 old temples scattered along the hillside. The start of the trail is just east of the station: take the inland road from the station and cross the railway tracks by the statue of local author Hayashi Fumiko. Close to the fourth temple along, Hōdo-ji, is Onomichi Literature Museum (; 13-28 Tsuchidō; 22-4102; admission with Shiga Naoya residence ¥300; 9am-5pm Nov-Mar, 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, closed Tue, Dec-Feb), where there are displays on the lives and works of Hayashi Fumiko and other writers connected with Onomichi. It’s all in Japanese, but the proprietor speaks English and will delight in taking you through it all at length, if you give him half a chance. Around the corner is Shiga Naoya residence (; 23-6243; 8-28 Tsuchi-dō;; admission with Onomichi Literature Museum ¥300; 9am-5pm Nov-Mar, 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, closed Tue, Dec-Feb), where another of Japan’s major 20th-century writers lived, from 1912 to 1913. About a third of the way along the temple route is a cable car (one way/return ¥280/440; every 15min) that whisks you up to the hilltop Senkō-ji, the best-known and most impressive of Onomichi’s temples, and its pleasant park.
SLEEPING & EATING
Onomichi Royal Hotel (; 23-2111; www.kokusai-hotel.com, in Japanese; 2-9-27 Tsuchido; s/tw from ¥5300/10,500; ) On the coastal road, about a 15-minute walk from the station (turn left and head along the waterfront), this simple business hotel is a decent place to crash for the night.
Alpha-1 (; 25-5600; www.alpha-1.co.jp/onomichi/, in Japanese; 1-1 Nishi Gosho-machi; s/tw from ¥5400/10,000; ) A comfortable business hotel a short walk from the station. Turn right out of the station; it’s behind the Fukuya shopping arcade. LAN internet is in all rooms, and laptop rental service is available, as well as free bike hire.
Green Hill Hotel Onomichi (; 24-0100; http://gho.hotwire.jp/index_e.html; 9-1 Higashi Gosho-machi; s/tw from ¥7875/15,750; ) Directly above the ferry port and a minute’s walk from the station, this comfortable, well-appointed hotel could hardly be better located. LAN internet in all rooms.
Uonobu Ryokan (; 37-4175; fax 37-3849; www.uonobu.jp, in Japanese; 2-27-6 Kubo; per person with meals from ¥16,800; ) Right on the waterfront, this elegantly old-fashioned place is renowned for its seafood. Nonguests can eat here too, but you’ll need to reserve by 5pm the previous day. It’s a good 20-minute walk from the station. Look for the imposing traditional building on the right just after the city hall (). There are paper lanterns outside.
Common (; 37-2905; 1-2-2 Nagae; 9am-7pm, closed Tue; ) Decked out in black and white, this pleasant coffee-and-waffles cafe at the foot of the cable car makes an excellent place to stop and refuel halfway through the temple circuit. Various coffee-and-waffle sets cost ¥800.
Onomichi Rāmen Ichibankan (; 21-1119; 2-9-26 Tsuchidō; 11am-8pm, closed Fri) Opposite the Sumiyoshi shrine on the waterfront, a 15-minute walk from the station, this popular noodle shop is a good place to try Onomichi’s rāmen (soup and noodles), characterised by thick slabs of juicy pork. Its best seller is the kaku-ni rāmen (; noodles with eggs and tender cuts of fatty pork) for ¥890. There is a picture menu.
Yamaneko (; 21-5355; 2-9-33 Tsuchidō; 11.30am-10pm, to midnight Sat & Sun, closed Mon) A relaxed and deliberately scruffy cafe on a corner along the waterfront road, a 15-minute walk from the station, just before Royal Hotel. There’s an English