Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [354]
Yasuhiro Sushi (; 22-5639; 1-10-12 Tsuchidō; lunch & dinner, closed Mon) Enjoy excellent local seafood in this cosy sushi restaurant on the seafront. It’s a white building with black tiling, five to 10 minutes’ walk from the station. Lunchtime deals include sashimi teishoku and anago-don (saltwater eel on rice), both for ¥1600.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Onomichi is at the Honshū end of the island-hopping Shimanami-Kaidō bridge system to Imabari in Shikoku (p476. As such, it’s a gateway to Inno-shima Click here and Ikuchi-jima Click here, both of which are officially part of Onomichi city. There are nine ferries a day to the port of Setoda on Ikuchi-jima (¥800, 40 minutes, 7.20am–7.30pm) via Inno-shima (¥400). Sixteen buses a day run from Onomichi all the way across to Imabari in Shikoku, with a change of buses at Inno-shima (¥2200, 6.40am–4.50pm) – travel time is less than two hours, but connection times vary; check the timetables in advance. Bike hire (22-5332; per day ¥500, deposit ¥1000; 9am-6pm) is available in the large car park attached to the ferry terminal.
The Shin-Onomichi shinkansen station is 3km north of the JR San-yō line station. Buses connect the two stations, but it’s easier to reach Onomichi on the JR San-yō line and change to the shinkansen line either at Fukuyama or Mihara.
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NORTHERN HIROSHIMA-KEN
Sandan-kyō
The Sandan-kyō gorge, about 50km northwest of Hiroshima, is an area that you could get lost in for a few days. A mostly paved trail follows the Shiki-gawa through an 11km gorge, providing visitors with access to fresh air, waterfalls and forests. The hike is very popular in autumn, when the leaves change colour. Pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Japan for details.
A dozen buses a day run from the Hiroshima bus centre to Sandan-kyō Station (¥1200 to ¥1400, 1½ hours), at the southern end of the gorge. There is no longer a rail service. The gorge is also accessible by car from Shimane-ken along Rte 191.
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HIROSHIMA
082 / pop 1,154,000
Although it’s a prosperous and attractive city with excellent nightlife and a cosmopolitan population, to most people, Hiroshima means just one thing. The city will forever be remembered for the terrible instant on 6 August 1945 when it became the target of the world’s first atomic-bomb attack. Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park is a constant reminder of that day, and it attracts visitors from all over the world. But Hiroshima is a far from depressing place; its citizens have recovered from nuclear holocaust to build a thriving and internationally minded community. It’s worth spending a night or two here and seeing the city at its vibrant best.
The city’s history goes back to 1589, when Mōri Terumoto established his castle here.
Orientation
Hiroshima is built on a series of sandy islands in the Ōta-gawa delta. JR Hiroshima Station is east of the city centre. The city’s main island is traversed east–west by the busy Aioi-dōri (with the main tram lines from the station). South of this is another east–west boulevard, Heiwa-Ōdōri. Between these two major roads is the Hon-dōri covered arcade, along with most of the shops, bars and restaurants.
The A-Bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Park are at the western end of Aioi-dōri.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Book Nook (244-8145; 5-17 Kamiya-chō; noon-9pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; ) A decent selection of secondhand English paperbacks and an internet cafe (¥200 for 15 minutes). It’s in a language school called Outsider, behind Iyo Bank and Yamaha music store. Look for the 2nd-floor sign.
INTERNET ACCESS
Futaba@Cafe (568-4792; 2-22 Matsubara-chō; membership fee ¥105, 1st 30min ¥300; 24hr) On the 6th floor of a book and CD store, with a yellow sign to the left as you exit the station.
International Exchange Lounge (Peace Memorial Park; 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-Mar) Has free internet access.
MONEY
The central post office changes money