Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [369]
Beside the cable-car station is the Iwakuni Art Museum (; 41-0506; 2-10-27 Yokoyama; admission ¥800; 9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Feb, closed Thu), which features a collection of armour and swords on the 2nd floor and screens and lacquerware on the 3rd. The Kikkawa Historical Museum (; 41-1010; 2-7-3 Yokoyama; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm, closed Wed) holds an extensive collection of artworks and historical pieces connected with the Kikkawa family that ruled Iwakuni during feudal times.
IWAKUNI-JŌ
The original Iwakuni-jō (Iwakuni Castle; 41-0633; admission ¥260; 9am-4.45pm, closed mid–end Dec) was built by Hiroie, the first of the Kikkawa lords, between 1603 and 1608. Just seven years later, the Tokugawa shogunate passed a law limiting the number of castles daimyō were allowed to build, and the castle at Iwakuni was demolished. It was rebuilt not far from its original setting in 1960 as part of Japan’s great castle-reconstruction movement. There is nothing much of interest inside, but there are good views from the hilltop setting.
You can get to the castle by cable car (one way/return ¥320/540; every 20min 9am-5pm) or on foot via the pleasant path beside the youth hostel.
OTHER SIGHTS
Ukai (cormorant fishing; 28-2877; Yokoyama 2-7-3; per person ¥3500; noon & 6.30pm Jun-Aug) takes place at Kintai-kyō daily in the summer, except when rain makes the water muddy, or on nights with a full moon.
Sleeping & Eating
Iwakuni Youth Hostel (; 43-1092; fax 43-0123; www.geocities.jp/iwakuniyouth/englishtop.html; 1-10-46 Yokoyama; dm members/nonmembers ¥2835/3835) This large hostel is in a tranquil spot close to the sights on the west bank of the river. There’s a path outside that makes for a nice walk up to the castle area. Meals are available.
Alpha-One Iwakuni (21-2244; fax 21-2245; www.alpha-1.co.jp/iwakuni/index.html, in Japanese; 4-8-2 Marifu-machi; s/tw ¥5100/8000; ) A large business hotel in the modern part of town, a short walk down the main road in front of the mainline JR station. LAN internet is available in all rooms, and computers are also available to rent. Free bike rental.
Hangetsu-an (; 41-0021; fax 43-0121; www.gambo-ad.com/iwakuni/hotel/hangetsuan/info.htm, in Japanese; 1-17-27 Iwakuni; per person with 2 meals from ¥9900; ) Built as a tea house in the early Meiji period, this traditional place has well-maintained tatami rooms, and local food. It’s on the opposite bank from the castle and the samurai town, down the street continuing from the bridge; look for the traditional gateway on the left as you head away from the river.
Midori-no-sato (; 41-1370; 1-4-10 Iwakuni; meals ¥630-1050;10am-6pm; ) Found behind a cake shop, this pleasant no-smoking restaurant has set menus including iwakuni-zushi (Iwakuni-style sushi; ¥1050), and niku udon (noodles with meat; ¥630). Crossing the Kintai-kyō bridge from the samurai part of town (with the musuems), carry straight on after you cross the bridge and it’s on the right after a minute.
Campagne (; 43-4477; 2-7-25 Kawanishi; meals ¥1000-3800; 11am-11pm) One of the few restaurants open late near the old part of town, this Italian place is about 1.5km from the Kintai-kyō bridge. From the bridge, head south and cross the Garyō-bashi () to the mountain side of the river, then turn left and continue to the intersection before Kawanishi station. There’s an English menu.
Getting There & Away
Iwakuni is only 40km from Hiroshima. Shin-Iwakuni station is on the shinkansen line, while JR Iwakuni Station is on the JR San-yō line. Kintai-kyō is about 5km from either. Buses shuttle between JR Iwakuni Station and Shin-Iwakuni (¥440,