Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [370]
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YAMAGUCHI
083 / pop 192,000
During the 100 years of civil war that bedevilled Japan until the country was reunited under the Tokugawa in the early 17th century, Yamaguchi prospered as an alternative capital to chaotic Kyoto. In 1550 Jesuit missionary Francis Xavier paused for two months in Yamaguchi on his way to the imperial capital, but quickly returned to the safety of this provincial centre when he was unable even to find the emperor in Kyoto! Today this surprisingly small and laid-back prefectural capital is a peaceful town with several interesting attractions.
Orientation & Information
Eki-dōri is the main shopping street, running straight up from the station and crossing the main shopping arcade before reaching Rte 9. The helpful tourist information office (933-0090; 2-1 Sodayu-chō; 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm) is on the 2nd floor of the station. Yuda Onsen is one stop away on the local train line; there are regular buses.
Sights
ST FRANCIS XAVIER MEMORIAL CHURCH
Yamaguchi was a major centre of Christian missionary activity before the religion was outlawed in 1589. The church overlooks the town centre from a hilltop in Kameyama-kōen. Built in 1952 in honour of St Francis Xavier, it burned down in 1991 and was rebuilt in 1998. The ground-floor Christian museum (920-1549; 4-1 Kameyama-chō; admission ¥300; 9am-5.30pm, closed Wed) contains exhibits on the life of Xavier and the early history of Christianity in Japan, most of it in Japanese only.
KŌZAN-KŌEN & RURIKŌ-JI
North of the town centre is Kōzan-kōen, where the impressive five-storey pagoda of Rurikō-ji, a National Treasure dating from 1404, is picturesquely situated beside a small lake. The park is also the site of the Tōshun-ji and the graves of the Mōri lords.
JŌEI-JI
About 4km northeast of the JR station, Jōei-ji is notable for its Zen garden, Sesshutei (922-2272; 2001 Miyano-shimo; admission ¥300; 8am-5pm), designed by the painter Sesshū. From the garden, a pleasant trail leads uphill through the woods to several more shrines.
YUDA ONSEN
Just west of the city is the 800-year-old Yuda Onsen, said to have been discovered when a white fox healed its injured legs in the waters here. Today the area is covered in a rash of hotels and bathing facilities aimed at Japanese tour groups. There’s a tourist information office (901-0150; 2-1-23 Yuda Onsen; 9am-7pm) on the main road about 600m northwest of Yuda Onsen Station. Take the road straight ahead as you leave the station to reach the main road, where most of the hotels and baths are located. There are some impressive facilities, including massage baths, at Onsen no Mori (; 920-1126; 4-7-17 Yuda Onsen; admission ¥1000; 10am-midnight). You can also use the baths at the large Hotel Kamefuku (; 922-7000; 4-5 Yuda Onsen; admission ¥800; 11.30am-10pm), the less-crowded Kokuminshukusha Koteru (; 922-3240; 4-3-15 Yuda Onsen; admission ¥400; 8am-noon & 3-10pm) and, for a taste of luxury, the traditional ryokan Umenoya (; 922-0051; 4-3-19 Yuda Onsen; admission ¥800; 1pm-midnight). Buses run regularly to Yuda Onsen bus stop from Yamaguchi Station (¥190, 10 minutes). It’s one stop on the local train line (¥140).
Festivals & Events
During Gion Matsuri, which takes place on 20, 24 and 27 July, the Sagi no mai (Egret Dance) is held at Yasaka-jinja. From 6 to 7 August, during Tanabata Chōchin Matsuri, 10,000 decorated lanterns illuminate the city.
Sleeping
Taiyō-dō Ryokan (922-0897; fax 922-1152; 2-3 Komeya-chō; per person from ¥3500) On the shopping arcade just off Eki-dōri and beside a bakery with a green peaked roof, the Taiyō-dō has comfortable rooms. The place is quite old, but it has character. It’s seven minutes’ walk from Yamaguchi Station.
Super Hotel (921-9000; fax 921-9002; www.superhotel.co.jp; 4-1-5 Yuda Onsen; s/d from ¥4980/6980; ) This business hotel in Yuda Onsen is nothing to write home about, but it has all the facilities you would expect. Guests have access to the Kame no Yu onsen for ¥200. LAN