Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [371]
Sunroute Kokusai Hotel Yamaguchi (923-3610; fax 923-2379; www.sunroute.jp; 1-1 Nakagawara-chō; s/tw from ¥6825/12,180; ) Central to the sights in the middle of town and a 10-minute walk from the station, this hotel has cheerful staff and stylish rooms and an Indian restaurant on the ground floor.
Kokuminshukusha Koteru (; 922-3240; fax 928-6177; 4-3-15 Yuda Onsen; per person with/without meals ¥7500/5400; ) Two blocks north of the main street in Yuda Onsen, this is a good-value family-run place with Japanese-style rooms and cheery staff. The entrance to the baths is on the side of the building.
Matsudaya Hotel (; 922-0125; fax 925-6111; www.matsudayahotel.co.jp, in Japanese; 3-6-7 Yuda Onsen; s & tw with 2 meals from ¥21,150; ) The rooms and gardens in this centuries-old ryokan are gorgeous, with service to match. The Matsudaya is about 800m north of Yuda Onsen Station along the main drag in Yuda Onsen.
Eating
Sabō Kō (928-5522; 1-2-39 Dōjōmonzen; dishes ¥300-900; 11.30am-7pm closed Tue) A hushed and cosy atmosphere prevails in this crowded little coffee shop, where goldfish swim in bowls on the counter. The speciality on the Japanese-only menu is wafū omuraisu (Japanese-style rice omelette; ¥800). The building’s outside is covered in wood, and there are plants in pots outside.
Frank (932-4836; 2nd fl, 2-4-19 Dōjōmonzen; meals ¥700-900; noon-11pm, closed Tue) Overlooking the main shopping street, this spacious cafe has sofas, drinks and good daily lunch sets from ¥700. Look for the red ‘F’ by the door, around the corner from the main street.
La Francesca (934-1888; 7-1 Kameyama; lunch & dinner; ) Excellent Italian food is the main attraction at this elegant Tuscan villa, on the left as you head up the hill to the St Francis Xavier Memorial Church. Set-course options include the Pranzo (¥1575) at lunchtime and Cena (¥5250) in the evenings.
Renkon (921-3550; 1-3 Komeyachō; 5pm-midnight) A wooden bar dominates the interior of this upmarket izakaya-style restaurant, where the Japanese-only menu includes such treats as gyū rebā sashi (raw calf’s liver; ¥900) and sashimi moriawase (¥1200). Look for the illuminated sign between the arcade and the Sunroute Hotel.
Getting There & Away
The Yamaguchi futsū service connects the city with Shin-Yamaguchi (¥230, 25 minutes). Shin-Yamaguchi is 10km southwest of Yamaguchi in Ogōri, at the junction of the San-yō Osaka–Hakata shinkansen line and the JR Yamaguchi line, which passes through Yamaguchi and continues on to Tsuwano and Masuda on the San-in coast.
JR and Bōchō Kōtsū buses run to/from Yamaguchi to Hagi (¥1680, one hour and 10 minutes) and Akiyoshi-dai (¥1130, 55 minutes).
The SL Yamaguchi-gō steam locomotive stops at Yamaguchi and Yuda Onsen Stations from March to November (Click here).
Getting Around
Yamaguchi’s sights are quite spread out – it’s 8km from the station to Jōei-ji and back. Bicycles can be hired opposite the station at Fukutake Rōho (922-0915; Eki-dōri 1-4-6; hire 1st 2hr ¥300, per additional hr ¥100; 8am-7pm).
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AKIYOSHI-DAI
0837
The rolling Akiyoshi-dai tablelands lie halfway between Yamaguchi and Hagi on the northern San-in coast. In this unusual landscape, the fields are dotted with curious rock spires. Beneath this picturesque plateau are hundreds of limestone caverns, the largest of which, Akiyoshi-dō (;62-0304; admission ¥1200; 8.30am-4.30pm), is open to the public.
Akiyoshi-dō is the largest limestone cave in Japan, and some of the layered limestone pools inside are quite remarkable. In all, the cave extends about 10km, at some points 100m wide, with a river flowing through it. Public access is limited to a small well-paved 1km section. At the midpoint of the cave trail you can take an elevator up to the surface, where there is a lookout over the surrounding country.
Sleeping
There is not much in the way of accommodation around the cave area; you’d be better off staying in Hagi or Yamaguchi and visiting Akiyoshi-dai as a day trip.
Akiyoshi Royal Hotel (;62-0311; fax 62-0231; www.shuhokan.co.jp;