Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [387]
Hearn arrived at the height of one of the Western world’s periodic bouts of infatuation with Japan, and soon became famous for the articles and books in which he introduced the wonders of this faraway land to the English-speaking world. Eager to stay on after his contract with Harper’s ran out, Hearn did what many others have done since, and took a job teaching English. For 15 idyllic months he lived in the provincial castle town of Matsue, where he married Koizumi Setsu, the daughter of a local samurai family. The house where they lived is now one of the most popular tourist destinations in western Japan. After a stint in Kumamoto and a period as a journalist in Kobe, he finally settled in Tokyo – ‘the most horrible place in Japan’ – where he was appointed professor of English Literature at Tokyo Imperial University. He became a naturalised citizen in 1895 and died less than 10 years later, at the age of 54.
Although Japan has changed almost beyond recognition in the century or so since Hearn lived here, his best pieces have stood the test of time and many of them are well worth reading today. His first Japan-themed collection, Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan (1894), contains his famous essay on Matsue – ‘Chief City of the Province of the Gods’, as well as an account of his trip to Izumo, where he was the first European allowed inside the gates of the ancient shrine. Kwaidan, a collection of ghost stories, was made into a successful film by Kobayashi Masaki in 1964.
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Drinking
Filaments (24-8984; 5 Hakkenya-chō; drinks from ¥600; 7.30pm-late) This mellow little bar near the river is a good spot to chill out and chat with the owner into the early hours.
Cafe Bar EAD (28-3130; 36 Suetsugu Honmachi; drinks from ¥525; 5pm-midnight Thu & Mon, to 1am Fri-Sun) There are great river views from the terrace of this relaxed spot, found as you head away from the bridge. Snacks include homemade pizzas (such as tomato and anchovy for ¥735). Take the stairs beside the EAD used-clothing shop by the bridge and climb to the 3rd floor.
Getting There & Away
Matsue is on the JR San-in line, which runs along the San-in coast. You can get to Okayama via Yonago on the JR Hakubi line. It’s ¥480 to Yonago (35 minutes), then ¥4620 to Okayama by tokkyū (two hours and 15 minutes).
Matsue is served by Izumo and Yonago airports. There are flights to Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Fukuoka, the Oki Islands and Seoul. Highway buses operate to Japan’s major cities.
Getting Around
The red streetcar-like Lake Line buses follow a set route around the city’s attractions every 20 minutes from 8.40am to 5.40pm. One ride costs ¥200, or a day pass is available for ¥500.
Matsue is a good place to explore by bicycle; these can be rented close to Matsue station at Mazda Rent-a-Car (26-8787; 466-1 Asahimachi; 8.30am-6pm). Rates are ¥300 per day.
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AROUND MATSUE & IZUMO
Shimane-hantō
North of Matsue, the coastline of the Shimane-hantō (Shimane Peninsula) has some spectacular scenery, particularly around Kaga. From April to October, 50-minute boat tours run from Marine Plaza Shimane (0852-85-9111; tour per person ¥1200, minimum 3 people) to the sea cave at Kaga-no-Kukedo. Take an Ichibata bus from Matsue Station to Marine Gate, where you can change for another bus to the Marine Plaza.
Adachi Art Museum
East of Matsue in Yasugi is this excellent museum (0854-28-7111; 320 Furukawa-chō, Yasugi-shi; admission ¥2200, foreigners with ID ¥1100; 9am-5.30pm, to 5pm Oct-Mar; ). Founded by local businessman and art collector Adachi Zenkō, the collection here includes more than 100 paintings by Yokoyama Taikan (1868–1958) and a good selection of works