Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [388]
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OKI-SHOTŌ
08512 / pop 24,000
North of Matsue are the Oki-shotō (Oki Islands), with spectacular scenery and steep cliffs. Strictly for those who want to get away from it all, they were once used to exile prisoners (as well as two emperors) who came out on the losing side of political squabbles. The group consists of several islands, including the three Dōzen islands and the larger Dōgo. The 7km-long cliffs of the Oki Kuniga coast of Nishi-no-shima, at times falling 250 sheer metres into the sea, are particularly noteworthy. Kokobun-ji on Dōgo dates from the 8th century. Bullfights are an attraction on Dōgo during the summer months – not man versus bull, but bull versus bull.
If you’re keen to go, allow at least a couple of days and pop into the information office at Matsue Station to make any necessary bookings and get information before you head off. Pick up the simple English-language brochure and map of the islands called Oki National Park. There’s also the Japanese-only website www.e-oki.net.
The islands have some minshuku and other forms of accommodation, and places to camp.
Ferry services to the Oki Islands from Shichirui and Sakai-minato, which are northeast of Matsue, are operated by Oki Kisen (0851-22-1122). For Dōgo-shima, from Matsue bus terminal take the 7.55am bus to Shichirui (; ¥1000, 40 minutes), then the 9am ferry (¥3050, 2½ hours). Another ferry leaves Shichirui in the afternoon; the timetable varies depending on the time of year. There are flights to Dōgo from Izumo and Osaka.
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DELICACIES FROM THE LAKE
Matsue’s kyodo ryōri (regional cuisine) includes the ‘seven delicacies’ from Shinji-ko.
suzuki or hōsho yaki – steam-baked and paper-wrapped bass
shirauo – whitebait tempura or sashimi
amasagi – sweet tempura or teriyaki
shijimi – freshwater clams in miso soup
moroge ebi – steamed shrimp
koi – baked carp
unagi – grilled freshwater eel
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TOTTORI-KEN
Although Tottori is the least populous of Japan’s 47 prefectures, it has a wealth of spectacular coastal scenery, sand dunes, onsen and volcanoes. Summer is the best time to visit. The large city of Yonago () is a major transport hub, with trains heading south to Okayama on the San-yō coast.
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DAISEN
0859
Although it’s not one of Japan’s highest mountains, at 1729m Daisen looks impressive because it rises straight from sea level – its summit is only about 10km from the coast.
The popular climb up the volcano is a five- to six-hour return trip from Daisen-ji () temple. Up a stone path is Ōgamiyama-jinja () shrine, the oldest building in western Tottori-ken. From the summit, there are fine views over the coast and, in perfect conditions, all the way to the Oki-shotō. Pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Japan for detailed information on hiking Daisen.
Buses run to the temple from Yonago (¥800, 50 minutes, eight daily from 7.20am to 6.10pm). At the temple is the Daisen-ji Tourist Information Centre (52-2502; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat & Sun), with brochures, maps and hiking information. Staff can arrange bookings at the local ryokan.
The mountain catches the northwest monsoon winds in the winter, bringing lots of snow to western Japan’s top skiing area. Daisen Kokusai Ski Resort (; 52-2321; www.daisen.net) is one of four linked ski hills on the lower slopes.
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ALONG THE COAST TO TOTTORI
About 6km north of Kurayoshi () Station is Lake Tōgo, with Hawai Onsen on its western side and Tōgo Onsen on its eastern side. There are buses from Kurayoshi Station, where the tourist information office (8.30am-5pm, closed Wed) has free bikes for hire. There is plenty of accommodation at Hawai Onsen, including Bōkorō (; 0858-35-2221; fax 0858-35-2675;