Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [391]
Said to be the oldest onsen in the region and known for its curative waters, Iwai Onsen is a small collection of ryokan about eight minutes by bus from Iwami station along Rte 9. Day-trippers can relax at modern sentō Iwai Yukamuri Onsen (; 0857-73-1670; admission ¥300; 6am-10pm). It’s right by the bus stop and has an old-fashioned, white-and-blue exterior.
Return to beginning of chapter
Return to beginning of chapter
Northern Honshū
* * *
FUKUSHIMA-KEN
AIZU-WAKAMATSU
KITAKATA
BANDAI PLATEAU
MIYAGI-KEN
SENDAI
MATSUSHIMA & OKU-MATSUSHIMA
ISHINOMAKI
KINKASAN
NARUKO ONSEN
IWATE-KEN
HIRAIZUMI
TŌNO VALLEY
MORIOKA
AOMORI-KEN
AOMORI
HAKKŌDA-SAN
SHIMOKITA-HANTŌ
HIROSAKI
IWAKI-SAN
AONI ONSEN
TOWADA-KO
AKITA-KEN
HACHIMANTAI
TAZAWA-KO
KAKUNODATE
AKITA
YAMAGATA-KEN
TOBI-SHIMA
TSURUOKA
DEWA SANZAN
YAMAGATA
TENDŌ
ZAŌ ONSEN
YAMADERA
YONEZAWA
NIIGATA-KEN
NIIGATA
MYŌKŌ KŌGEN
SADO-GA-SHIMA
NAEBA
ECHIGO-YUZAWA ONSEN
* * *
The rough sea, stretching out towards Sado, the Milky Way.
Matsuo Bashō, The Narrow Road to the Deep North (1689)
From the old city of Edo, the narrow road to the deep north winds precipitously through rugged mountains and remote valleys, terminating at the very tip of Japan’s main island. This time-honoured travellers’ route runs alongside ancient watercourses that feed fertile rice paddies, and around hulking volcanic massifs that fuel natural onsen (hot springs). In the days of Matsuo Bashō, the legendary itinerant haiku poet, a trip to the farthest reaches of Honshū was synonymous with walking to the ends of the Earth.
The shinkansen (bullet train) has accelerated the development and modernisation of northern Honshū, commonly known as Tōhoku, though you only need to step away from the tracks to find yourself in the midst of untamed nature. From hiking and skiing to rafting and onsen-hopping, Tōhoku provides a natural complement to the ordered neon chaos of Tokyo. Indeed, northern Honshū is separated from the frenetic capital by a train ride of several hours, and proud locals wouldn’t have it any other way.
English is not widely spoken in Tōhoku, and the region’s unique dialect is impenetrable even to many native Japanese. However, kind denizens of the deep north will happily go out of their way to assist a traveller in need. And also, thanks to an excellent network of local trains and highways, Tōhoku is remarkably more accessible than you might think, either by express train or rental car.
* * *
HIGHLIGHTS
Get away from the mainland crush on Sado-ga-shima, a former island of exile that can be explored on foot or by rental car
Go cycling in the Tōno valley, but keep an eye out for mythological little goblins known as kappa
Dodge ice-covered trees known as ‘snow monsters’ at Zaō Onsen, or at any of the region’s other ski slopes
Soak your worries away in Sukayu Onsen Ryokan, a lemony, 1000-person bath, or at any of the region’s other steamy onsen
Go hiking through the sacred trio of peaks that comprise Dewa Sanzan, and seek out tutorage from the famed yamabushi (mountain priests)
Sample a small but remarkable taste of Hiraizumi’s former glory at Chūson-ji
Compose a haiku while scanning the scenery at Matsushima, the famous bay immortalised by the poet Bashō
* * *
History
Originally inhabited by the Ezo people, who are believed to have been related to the Ainu of Hokkaidō, Tōhoku was settled during the 7th to 9th centuries, when Japanese from the south spread northward, searching for arable new land.
In the 11th century the Northern Fujiwara clan ruled from Hiraizumi, a settlement reputed to have rivalled Kyoto in its majesty and opulence. Aizu-Wakamatsu and Morioka were also important feudal towns.
The great daimyō (domain lord)