Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [392]
Unfortunately, Tōhoku faded into obscurity when the Meiji Restoration wiped out clan rule. It subsequently suffered years of neglect, a trend that was reversed only after WWII and the subsequent drive for development heavily based on industrial growth. These days, tourism is a major player in the region’s economic health.
Climate
Depending on when you come, northern Honshū will either be very comfortable or bone-chillingly cold. Summers (June to August) are mild and considerably more comfortable than in the south, producing magnificent displays of greenery. In winter (December to February), Siberian cold grips the region and temperatures plummet. Snow is at least half of the fun here – making for great skiing, atmospheric yukimiburos (snow viewing from the warmth of an onsen) and adding winter’s white serenity to the mountain ranges.
Getting There & Away
The best way to get to the region is via the JR Tōhoku shinkansen line, which links Tokyo with Sendai in about two hours, and travels as far as Hachinohe. From there, limited express and local trains run to Aomori and further north to Hokkaidō.
Getting Around
Local transport revolves around three major JR lines. Two of these run down the east and west coasts, and the third snakes down between them in the centre, closely following the Tōhoku shinkansen line. Transport connections in the region have been accelerated with the opening of the Akita shinkansen line from Morioka to Akita and the extension of the Yamagata shinkansen line north to Shinjō.
Exploration of the more remote parts of Tōhoku is generally possible with local train and bus connections, but car rental is preferable as there is little traffic and most rentals include GPS positioning, making navigation a breeze. Roads and connections can be severely affected by winter weather, which can change quickly.
Those without JR Passes should consider investing in the JR East Pass, which provides unlimited travel by JR rail in the Tōhoku region for four flexible days, or five or 10 consecutive days, and – unlike the JR Pass – this one can be purchased after you arrive.
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FUKUSHIMA-KEN
Fukushima-ken, Japan’s third-largest prefecture, serves as the gateway to Tōhoku. While it boasts fewer sites of tourist value than its northern neighbours, you shouldn’t just blaze through here on the shinkansen. There is plenty of hiking and skiing that is worth seeking out, as well as a number of high-profile local sakes that certainly benefit from a slow sipping. The city of Fukushima serves as the region’s administrative capital, but the medieval capital of Aizu-Wakamatsu, with its reconstructed castle, is a much more appealing place to base yourself.
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AIZU-WAKAMATSU
0242 / pop 120,000
During the Edo period, Aizu-Wakamatsu was the capital of the Aizu clan, a reign that came to an end in the Bōshin Civil War in 1868 when Tsuruga castle fell after the clan sided with the Tokugawa shōgunate against the imperial faction. The event is known throughout Japan due to the actions of the Byakkotai (White Tigers), a group of teenage samurai who committed seppuku (ritual suicide by disembowelment) when they saw that the castle was shrouded in smoke.
In reality, it was the surrounding area that was ablaze, and it would be weeks before the Aizu clan would fall; this tragi-comic tale greatly tickles Japanese sensibilities. Today, the impressive reconstruction of Tsuruga castle makes Aizu an interesting stop as you meander northward.
Information
There’s free internet (one hour) at the Tsuruga-jō information desk.
Aizu Wakamatsu Post Office (1-2-17 Chūō) On the main street; has an international ATM.
Police box (22-1877, main office 22-5454) Right next to the train station.
Sightseeing information desk