Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [393]
Sights
The main sights in Aizu are conveniently arranged in a ring around the fringes of the city, and a surprising amount of English signage makes it easy to navigate the city on foot. However, if you’re not confident in the precision of your internal GPS, or if the weather isn’t cooperating, a nostalgic old tourist bus makes the loop – for more information, Click here.
Starting on the eastern edge of the city, at the end of Byakkotai-dori, Iimori-yama () is the mountain where a group of White Tiger samurai killed themselves during the Bōshin Civil War. You can take an escalator to the top (¥250; 8am-5pm Mar-Nov) to visit their graves, and to take a picture of the creepy eagle statue donated by the Italian Fascist party in 1928.
At the foot of the mountain, the Byakkotai Memorial Hall (; 24-9170; Iimori-yama, Ikki-machi; admission ¥400; 8am-5pm Apr-Nov, 8.30am-4.30pm Dec-Mar) tells the story of the tragic suicides, while Sazae-dō (; 22-3163; Iimori-yama, Ikki-machi; admission ¥400; 8.15am-sunset Apr-Oct, 9am-sunset Nov-Mar), an 18th-century hexagonal hall, contains 33 statues of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy.
If you now head south for roughly 2km along Iimori-dori, you’ll reach Aizu Bukeyashiki (; 28-2525; Innai Higashiyama-machi; admission ¥850; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4.30pm Nov-Mar), a superb reconstruction of the yashiki (villa) of Saigō Tanomo, the Aizu clan’s chief retainer. Wander through the 38 rooms, which include a guestroom for the Aizu lord, a tea-ceremony house, quarters for the clan’s judge and a rice-cleaning mill presented here in full, noisy working order.
Heading northwest for 1km along Rte 325, you can’t miss Oyaku-en (; 27-2472; Hanaharu-machi; admission ¥310; 8.30am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm), a large meditative garden complex that is centred on a tranquil carp pond. Originally a holiday retreat for the Aizu clan, it features a section devoted to the cultivation of medicinal herbs (available for purchase) – a practice encouraged by the lords.
From here, it’s easy to spot Tsuruga-jō (; Crane Castle; 27-4005; Oute-machi; admission ¥400, with tea ¥500; 8.30am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm), which looms just southeast of the gardens. The present building of Tsuruga-jō is a 1965 reconstruction, but parts of the daunting walls remain, as does the castle’s moat. Inside, there’s a museum with historical artefacts from battle and daily life. The 5th floor affords a terrific view of the surrounding town and valley, including Iimori-yama.
On the castle grounds, Rinkaku (; 27-4005; admission ¥200, combined castle ticket ¥500; 8.30am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm) is an evocative, 400-year-old tea house that was rescued from the castle’s destruction by a local family, and returned here in 1990.
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NORTHERN TōHOKU WELCOME CARD
The Northern Tōhoku Welcome Card was introduced as a special incentive for foreign tourists and students residing in Japan. It provides discounts – usually around 10% – on transport, accommodation and sightseeing throughout the region. Look out for the red-and-white Welcome Card sticker at participating facilities.
To obtain the card, print it out directly from the website (www.northern-tohoku.gr.jp/welcome) or pick up a form from tourist offices throughout the region. Fill in your details and present the card with your passport (or student ID) to obtain the discount – the card is valid for one year.
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If you take the north exit from the castle, you’re just two blocks south of the Aizu Sake Brewing Museum (; 26-0031; 8-7 Higashisakae-machi; admission ¥300; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov, 9.30am-4.30pm Dec-Mar), which details the history of brewing in the area (in English). Life-sized dioramas and old sake advertisements add to the charm. Naturally, you can sample the famous tipple for the price of admission.
Festivals & Events
Aizu-Wakamatsu holds four main festivals, coordinated