Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [394]
Sleeping
Aizuno Youth Hostel (; 55-1020; fax 55-1320; www.aizuno.com, in Japanese; 88 Kakiyashiki, Terasaki Aizu-Takada-chō; dm/r from ¥3200/4200) One of the best budget options in the region, Aizuno thrives amidst a pleasant rural setting far from the congestion of Aizu’s centre. The spick-and-span hostel, which offers both dormitory and private rooms, is located about 20 minutes by foot from Aizu-Takada station along the Tadami line from Aizu-Wakamatsu (¥230, 20 minutes). Seven trains run daily, but only one in the afternoon. Find out your train’s arrival time in advance and give the hostel notice – a staff member will pick you up from the station.
Minshuku Takaku (; 26-6299; fax 26-6116; www.naf.co.jp/takaku, in Japanese; 104 Innai Higashiyama-machi; r with/without 2 meals from ¥6300/4200; ) If you’re looking for traditional Japanese lodging, this mid-sized minshuku (Japanese-style B&B) offers modest tatami (woven floor matting) rooms, a small but pleasant sentō (public bath) and an attractive dining area framed by hardwood furnishings. Takaku is just east of the Aizu Bukeyashiki bus stop; from there, continue along the road, turn left at the post office and it’s just behind, on the left.
Aizu Wakamatsu Washington Hotel (; 22-6111; fax 24-7535; www.aizu-wh.com, in Japanese; 201 Byakko-machi; s/d from ¥7350/13,650; ) There is no shortage of business hotels around the station, though the Washington is our top pick, offering no-nonsense rooms that are sweetened with a whole host of onsite amenities from high-speed wi-fi to sophisticatd bars and restaurants. The Washington is located just three minutes’ walk east of the train station along Byakkotai-dori; look for the tall building with the English sign on the left-hand side of the road. LAN cable internet available.
Eating
Aizu is famous for wappa meshi, steamed fish over rice, prepared in a round container made from tree bark, giving a woody fragrance to the contents.
Mitsutaya (; 27-1345; 1-1-25 Ōmachi; skewers from ¥200; 10am-5pm, closed 1st & 3rd Wed of each month & every Wed Jan-Mar) A former bean-paste mill that dates from 1834, this place is an Aizu landmark. The speciality here is dengaku, which are bamboo skewers with deep-fried tofu and vegetables basted in sweet miso paste and baked over charcoal (the picture menu helps clear things up!). Facing west from the main post office, walk down Nanokomachi-dōri, then take the second left; it’s just near the intersection with Nanokomachi-dōri.
Takino (; 25-0808; 5-31 Sakae-machi; wappa meshi from ¥1420; lunch & dinner) One of the most famous places to try the sublime wappa meshi, offers several versions including salmon, crab and wild mushroom. From the main post office, facing south, turn left onto Nanokomachi-dōri, at the first light turn right; go left at the second alleyway, and you’ll see an old farm house on the right which is the location of Takino. An English menu makes ordering a breeze.
Alternatively, head on over at lunch- or dinnertime to neighbouring Kitakata for some of the most delicious rāmen (egg noodles) in Japan.
Getting There & Around
The JR Tōhoku shinkansen runs hourly between Tokyo and Kōriyama (¥7970, 1¼ hours). Kōriyama is connected to Aizu-Wakamatsu by the JR Banetsu-saisen line; hourly kaisoku (rapid) trains (¥1110, 1¼ hours) ply this scenic route.
There are a couple of daily kaisoku on the JR Bansetsu and Shinetsu lines between Aizu-Wakamatsu and Niigata (¥2210, 2¾ hours). If you miss any of these trains, there are also four to six daily express buses (¥2000, 1¾ hours) between both cities (the buses run between the stations in both towns and are operated by JR).
The historic