Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [398]
The grounds also contain the Aoba Castle Exhibition Hall (Map; 227-7077; Aobajō Ato, Tenshudai, Aoba-ku, admission ¥700; 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar), which helps add a bit of insight and historical context to the hallowed ruins.
If you’re still interested in learning more about Masamune, the nearby Sendai City Museum (Map;225-3074; Sendai Jō Sannomaru Ato, 26 Kawauchi, Aoba-ku; admission ¥400; 9am-4.45pm Tue-Sun; Loople stop 5) offers a comprehensive account of the samurai’s life, as well as more than 13,000 artefacts loaned from the Date family. Interestingly enough, although Masamune was blind in one eye, which earned him the nickname the ‘One-Eyed Dragon’, he is nearly always depicted in his portraits as having two eyes!
AROUND SENDAI
Akiu Onsen (; Map) was the Date clan’s favourite onsen, with a natural saltwater spring that’s said to be a curative for back pain and arthritis.
The village is a good base for side trips into the mountains to see Akiu Ōtaki (; Map), a 6m-wide, 55m-high waterfall, which is itself designated as one of Japan’s three most famous waterfalls (Japanese do love those famous sets of three!). You can view the falls from a scenic outlook or down by the basin.
Akiu Onsen is also convenient for access to the gorge, Futakuchi-kyō (), with its banji-iwa (rock columns). There are hiking trails along the river valley and a trail from Futakuchi Onsen to the summit of Daitō-dake (1366m) that takes about three hours.
A list of the bathhouses and hiking maps are available at Akiu Onsen’s tourist information office (398-2323; 9.30am-6pm), located adjacent to the village’s bus stop.
Akiu Onsen is an easy day trip from Sendai, though there are a number of small inns and guest houses in town if you want to slow down and soak up the atmosphere.
Buses leave hourly from stop 8 at Sendai station’s west bus pool for Akiu Onsen (¥780, 50 minutes), but only a few continue to Akiu Ōtaki (¥1070, 1 ½ hours).
Festivals & Events
Donto-sai () On 14 January men brave subzero weather conditions to hop around almost naked, a ritual supposed to bring good fortune for the new year.
Sendai Tanabata Matsuri (; Star Festival) Sendai’s major event, held from 6 to 8 August, celebrates a Chinese legend about the stars Vega and Altair. Vega was the king’s daughter who fell in love with and married Altair, a common herder. The king disapproved, so he formed the Milky Way between them. Once a year magpies are supposed to spread their wings across the universe so that the lovers can meet – traditionally on 7 July. Sendai celebrates in grand style by decorating the main streets with bamboo poles festooned with multicoloured streamers, and holding afternoon parades on Jōzenji-dōri. A couple of million visitors ensure that accommodation is booked solid at this time of year.
Jōzenji Street Jazz Festival () During the second weekend in September, 600 buskers from across Japan perform in Sendai’s streets and arcades. Again, book rooms way, way in advance.
Sendai Pageant of Starlight (SENDAI) Illuminates Aoba-dōri and Jōzenji-dōri with festive lights on 12 to 31 December.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Dōchū-an Youth Hostel (; 247-0511; 31 Kita-yashiki, Ōnoda, Taihaku-ku; dm from ¥3150; ) This evocative former farmhouse features genial management, bike rental, free internet, home cooking and a fantastic old cedar bath to soak in. Its only drawbacks are that it’s quite a way from the city centre, south of Sendai at the end of the subway line in Tomizawa (¥290, 12 minutes), then a further 15-minute walk. Station attendants have a map of the area and small signs guide the way. Head straight out from the station rather than veering right or left, and follow the road until you cross a major (four-lane) intersection. Cross, then take the first right, a smallish street. The hostel is on the left – if you hit the rāmen shop