Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [399]
Sendai Chitose Youth Hostel (; 222-6329; 6-3-8 Odawara, Aoba-ku; dm from ¥3255; ) If you want budget digs that are closer to the city centre, this snug little hostel with Japanese-style rooms is a 20-minute walk from Sendai station’s west exit. Take any bus going via Miyamachi from stop 17 at the west bus pool and get off at Miyamachi 2 Chōme bus stop. The hostel is tucked down a small side street three blocks east of the bus stop.
MIDRANGE
Aisaki Ryokan (Map; 264-0700; fax 227-6067; http://aisakiryokan.com, in Japanese; 5-6 Kitame-machi, Aoba-ku; s/d/tw ¥3990/6720/7350) If you’re not intimidated by cramped and claustrophobic spaces, this budget ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) offers simple yet functional Japanese-style rooms with clean and modern furnishings. It’s also within easy walking distance of the station; Aisaki occupies a narrow side street just behind the post office.
Hotel Central Sendai (Map; 711-4111; fax 711-4110; www.hotel-central.co.jp/english.html; 4-2-6 Chūō, Aoba-ku; s/d from ¥7140/12600; ) As its name implies, the Hotel Central Sendai is conveniently located in central Sendai, just two blocks west of the Hotel Metropolitan Sendai and JR Sendai station. While fairly standard as far as business hotels go, it’s a good choice for privacy seekers, and a much cheaper alternative to Sendai’s more famous brand-name accommodation options. LAN cable internet available.
TOP END
Sendai Kokusai Hotel (Map; 268-1112; www.tobu-skh.co.jp/english/english.htm; 4-6-1 Chūō, Aoba-ku; s/d from ¥13,282/20,790; ) The Sendai Kokusai Hotel is centred on a sumptuous baroque dining area, decked out in soothing brown and cream tones, and highlighted by European-inspired rooms. The hotel is just a few blocks west of the station, next to the easy-to-spot SS30 building, Sendai’s second-tallest building. LAN cable internet available.
Hotel Metropolitan Sendai (Map; 268-2525; www.s-metro.stbl.co.jp/english/index.html; 1-1-1 Chūō, Aoba-ku; s/tw/d from ¥14,437/25,410/27,142; ) No surprises here at the Metropolitan, Sendai’s signature luxury hotel, which is part of the Sendai station complex. Rooms are smart, well appointed and comfortably plush, and cosmopolitan dining and drinking options sweeten the deal. LAN cable internet available.
Eating & Drinking
Gyūtan (cow tongue) is much loved by Sendai locals. Apparently the tradition derived from hard times (as so many Tōhoku traditions do) – in the immediate post-war years, meat was scarce, so cow tongue became a coveted source of protein. Despite its humble origins, cow tongue is a surprisingly tender cut of meat that is low in fat and high in flavour.
There’s a clutch of restaurants and bars that cover the gamut of price ranges at the top of SS30, any of which is a great place to survey the land and scope out the night skies. Also check out the underground mall in JR Sendai station, which is home to the aptly named ‘Restaurant Avenue,’ a row of various Japanese and international eateries.
Yabuya Honten (Map; 222-5002; 2-2-24 Ōmachi, Aoba-ku; mains from ¥400; 11.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) A much-loved soba (buckwheat noodles) specialist, Yabuya Honten has been around since 1847 – more than enough time to perfect its craft. The kamo-zaru soba (¥600) variation, served with duck, is just as delicious as it sounds. Located off Aoba-dōri, just before it curves into the park.
Umami Tasuke (Map; 262-2539; 1st fl, Sen chimatsushima Bldg, 2-11-11 Kokubunchō, Aoba-ku; gyūtan from ¥800; 11.30am-10pm Tue-Sun) You’re in luck, as one of the most famous places in Sendai to sample gyūtan happens to offer an easy-to-use English menu. Just outside the covered market of Ichibanchō-dori, this restaurant generally has a queue.
Aji Tasuke (Map; 225-4641; 4-4-13 Ichiban-chō, Aoba-ku; gyūtan from ¥900; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) If you can’t get enough gyūtan – cooked over charcoal, this is some seriously tasty stuff – try this other landmark Sendai eatery where you can score a teishoku (set meal) for ¥1400. It’s outside the market Ichibanchō-dori, right next to the small torii (shrine