Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [401]
It’s easy to see why Bashō was so taken by Matsushima. The bay features around 250 islands covered in pines that have been shaped by the wind, and rock formations that have been shaped by the ceaseless slapping of waves, resulting in spectacular monuments to natural forces. This conglomeration is one of Japan’s Nihon Sankei (Three Great Sights) – the other two are the floating torii of Miyajima Island and the sand-spit at Amanohashidate.
As a result of this distinguished reputation, Matsushima is heavily touristed. Yet it is undeniably picturesque, with a peculiar charm. Masamune Date was so smitten with one of the rock formations that he offered a reward to anyone who could deliver it to castle headquarters. No one could.
On the eastern curve of the bay, Oku-Matsushima is less touristed and offers several trails for exploration by bicycle or on foot.
Orientation & Information
There’s a Matsushima station, but Matsushima-kaigan is the one you want – it’s closer to the main sights. Outside, the tourist information office (354-2618; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Mar) provides maps.
Inside Oku-Matsushima’s Nobiru station, the tourist information office (588-2611; 9am-6pm) has a few bicycles for rent.
Sights & Activities
MATSUSHIMA
Matsushima is essentially a small village, which means that the following sights are within quick and easy walking distance of one another.
Zuigan-ji (admission ¥1000; 8am-3.30pm Jan & Dec, to 4pm Feb & Nov, to 4.30pm Mar & Oct, to 5pm Apr-Sep), one of Tōhoku’s finest Zen temples, was founded in AD 828. The present buildings were constructed in 1606 by Date Masamune to serve as a family temple. Look out for Seiryū-den (; Treasure Hall), displaying works of art associated with the Date family. The temple is accessed via an avenue lined with tall cedars, with weathered Buddhas and altars to the sides – a frequently spooky, deeply contemplative approach.
The Kanran-tei (admission ¥200; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) pavilion was presented to the Date family by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the late 16th century. It served as a genteel venue for tea ceremonies and moon viewing – the name means ‘a place to view ripples on the water’. Today matcha (powdered green tea) is served here, and the garden includes the Matsushima Hakubutsukan, a small museum housing a collection of relics from the Date family.
The interior of Godai-dō, a small wooden temple, opens to the public just once every 33 years. You missed the viewing in 2006, so make do with the sea view and the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac carved in to the eaves, and then come back in 2039.
Fukuura-jima (; admission ¥200; 8am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb), an island connected to the mainland by a 252m-long, red wooden bridge, makes for a leisurely half-hour walk around its botanic gardens.
Ōjima () is also connected by bridge to the mainland. It was once a monk’s retreat, and is now renowned for its Buddhist rock carvings, statues, meditation caves and relics.
OKU-MATSUSHIMA
Natural beauty is the order of the day here. Sagakei () is a 40m-high scenic canyon overhanging the Pacific Ocean, notable for its crashing waves; Ōtakamori () is a small hill in the middle of Miyato Island offering a terrific panorama, including Mt Zaō and Kinkasan; and Nobiru Beach () is a swimming beach popular with day trippers from Sendai.
BOAT TRIPS
Boats (lower/upper deck ¥1420/2220, 50 min) to Matsushima, along the celebrated Matsushima Bay coastline, depart from Shiogama Pier every 30 minutes between 9.30am and 3pm from 21 April to November, and hourly the rest of the year. Get off the train two stops before Matsushima-kaigan at Hon-Shiogama. The pier is 10 minutes on foot from Hon-Shiogama station – turn right as you exit.
Otherwise there are loop cruises that depart from the Marine Gate Ferry Pier in Matsushima (¥1400, 50 minutes) between 9.30am and 3pm, though these are often overrun with sightseers, especially on weekends and holidays.
Festivals & Events
Matsushima Kaki Matsuri (; Matsushima Oyster Festival) Bivalve aficionados