Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [402]
Zuigan-ji Tōdō The approach to Zuigan-ji is enhanced from 6 to 8 August, when candlesticks are lit along the path for the event, which honours this ancient shrine.
Matsushima Tōrō Nagashi Hanabi Taikai On 17 August, the souls of the departed are honoured with the O-Bon (Festival of the Dead) ritual, when lighted lanterns are floated out to sea accompanied by an extensive fireworks display.
Sleeping & Eating
Pila Matsushima Okumatsushima Youth Hostel (Map; 0225-88-2220; 89-48 Minami-Akazaki, Nobiru, Matsushima; dm from ¥4905; ) Set in a lovely location just near the beach at Oku-Matsushima, this is a great base if you want to tackle some of the nearby hiking and biking trails, especially if you meet a few new friends in the dormitories. To get to the hostel from Nobiru station, walk across the bridge and towards the ocean for about 15 minutes until you reach an intersection with a blue youth-hostel sign pointing down the road to the right. From there it’s about 800m. Staff at the tourist information office can give you a map with directions.
Hotel Daimatsusō (354-3601; fax 354-6154; www.daimatsuso.co.jp, in Japanese; 25 Matsushima; per person incl 2 meals from ¥8400; ) Just steps away from the station (to the left as you exit, at the end of the car park), with welcoming potted plants to greet you. Not as fancy as some places, but clean and convenient with good food and service, and the upper floors have nice views of the bay.
Matsushima Century Hotel (354-4111; www.centuryhotel.co.jp, in Japanese; 8 Aza-Senzui; d from ¥12,700; ) The pick of the resorts, the Century enjoys a stunning location, resting elegantly on one of the islands in Matsushima Bay. Western- and Japanese-style rooms vary in price depending on their furnishings and location (upmarket rooms have sea-view balconies), though everyone can enjoy the panoramic vistas from the on-site communal bath. LAN cable internet available.
Santori Chaya (353-2622; dinner mains ¥1500-2500; lunch & dinner Thu-Tue, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of month; ) A small, intimate, Japanese-style eatery favoured by locals, Santori Chaya is great for kaki yaki (fried oysters; ¥650) or sanma sashimi (raw saury; ¥750) in season. From Matsushima-kaigan station, go left out of the car park and follow the main road to the third set of lights. You’ll find Santori Chaya on the left side of the big parking lot. LAN cable internet available.
Getting There & Away
There are frequent kaisoku on the JR Senseki line between Sendai and Matsushima-kaigan (¥400, 35 minutes). To reach Oku-Matsushima from Matsushima-kaigan station, take the JR Senseki line six stations east (two stops by kaisoku) to Nobiru (¥230, 10 minutes).
For drivers, Matsushima can be reached from Sendai via the Sendai Matsushima Hwy ().
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MATSUO BASHŌ
Another year is gone, a traveller’s shade on my head, straw sandals at my feet.
Matsuo Bashō, Account of Exposure to the Fields (1685)
Regarded as Japan’s master of haiku, Matsuo Bashō (1644–94) is credited with elevating its status from comic relief to Zen-infused enlightenment.
Bashō was born into a samurai family, and served the feudal lord Yoshitada in his late teenage years. Moving first to Kyoto, and then to Edo, Bashō found success as a published poet, but ultimately found the acclaim to be spiritually unsettling. He eventually turned to Zen, and the philosophy had a deep impact on his work. In fact, comparisons have been made between his haiku and Zen kōan (short riddles), intended to bring about a sudden flash of insight in the listener.
Bashō was also influenced by the natural philosophy of the Chinese Taoist sage Chuangzi, and began to examine nature uncritically. Later he developed his own poetic principle by drawing on the concept of sabi, a kind of spare, lonely beauty.
When he reached his 40s, Bashō decided to give his career away in favour of travelling throughout Japan, seeking to build friendships and commune