Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [403]
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ISHINOMAKI
0225 / pop 170,000
Manga-maniacs should be sure to put Ishinomaki on their to-do list – the town is littered with tributes to cartoonist Shōtarō Ishinomori, a local hero who created some of Japan’s best-loved manga characters. Aside from that, and its use as a launching pad for Kinkasan, there isn’t much else going on here.
The tourist information office (93-6448; 9am-5.30pm) is just outside the station, and has combo bus-and-ferry timetables for the Kinkasan-bound. Also, be sure to pick up a manga-themed map of the city, which is helpful, as the sights listed here are scattered about. With Sendai and Matushima close by, there’s no compelling reason to stay here.
The spaceship-style Ishinomaki Mangattan Museum (; 96-5055; 2-7 Nakase; admission 1st & 3rd fl free, 2nd fl ¥800; 9am-6pm Mar-Nov, to 5pm Wed-Mon Dec-Feb, closed 3rd Tue Mar-Nov) is mostly devoted to Shōtarō Ishinomori’s work and will appeal most to folks already familiar with the comics Cyborg 009, one of Ishinomori’s many cartoon creations.
Old Ishinomaki Orthodox Church (; 95-1111; 3-18 Nakase; admission free; 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) is Japan’s oldest wooden church (dating from 1880, but no longer in use). Advance reservation (by phone) is mandatory.
An impressive replica of the galleon San Juan Bautista (; 24-2210; www.santjuan.or.jp, in Japanese; 30-2 Ōmori Watanoha; admission ¥700; 9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon) is near the wharf. The San Juan is a monument to Date Masamune’s forward-thinking rule; with an envoy of 20, it sailed to Rome as Japan’s first diplomatic mission.
Frequent kaisoku run along the JR Senseki line between Sendai and Ishinomaki (¥820, 1¼ hours) via Matsushima-kaigan and Nobiru. Rental bikes, which are available right outside the station, make a great way to see the town, even though most of the sights are within walking distance.
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KINKASAN
0225
The island of Kinkasan, or ‘Golden Mountain’, was an ancient site for gold prospecting, and it’s said that if you pay a visit three years running, you can kiss your money worries goodbye for the rest of your life. Of course, the vein has long since been tapped dry, though Kinkasan still attracts a steady stream of visitors eager for some good fortune to rub off. Interestingly enough, women were banned on Kinkasan until the late 19th century. Today, for both sexes, an overnight stay is ideal for those seeking wide-open spaces, fresh air and plenty of peace and tranquillity.
Orientation & Information
Kinkasan is accessed by ferry from Ayukawa, a small port town that is technically part of Ishinomaki. There’s no tourist information, or much else for that matter on Kinkasan, so it’s best to collect pamphlets and timetables at the Ishinomaki tourist information office before making the journey
Sights & Activities
Before setting out on foot, take heed: the dirt trail that once circled the entire island (24km) along the shore is no longer safe at the northern edge because of a landslip – only the southern side is considered safe. If you get lost, head south and downhill towards the sea.
Turning left from the boat dock, it’s a steep 20-minute walk uphill to Koganeyama-jinja (), built in AD 794 by Emperor Shōmu as thanks for finding the gold used to finish the Great Buddha at Nara’s Tōdai-ji.
From Koganeyama-jinja it’s a 50-minute hike downhill to Senjōjiki (; 1000 Tatami Mats Rock), a large formation of white rock on the eastern shore of the island, and a further hour to the lighthouse propping up the southeast corner.
It takes roughly 1½ hours to follow the dirt trail along the shore and cross back over the summit to the dock area.
Festivals & Events
Ryūjin Matsuri (; Dragon Festival) On the last