Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [407]
Getting There & Away
Hourly trains run along the JR Tōhoku shinkansen between Sendai and Ichinoseki (¥3320, 30 minutes). Local trains run about every hour or two on the JR Tōhoku Main line between Ichinoseki and Hiraizumi (¥190, 10 minutes). There are also frequent local buses running between Ichinoseki and Chūson-ji (¥350, 20 minutes) via JR Hiraizumi station.
Ichinoseki is connected to Morioka by the JR Tōhoku shinkansen (¥3920, 40 minutes) and the JR Tōhoku Main line (futsū, ¥1620, 1½ hours).
If you’re driving, the Tōhoku Expressway () runs between Sendai and Hiraizumi.
Getting Around
In addition to the local buses running between JR Hiraizumi station and Chūson-ji, there is bicycle rental (per day ¥1000; 9am-4pm Apr-Nov) available at a small kiosk next to the station.
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TŌNO VALLEY
0198 / pop 31,000
The Tōno valley, surrounded by verdant rice fields and dramatic mountains, is the heartland of some of Japan’s most cherished folk tales. A comparatively poor area that has suffered from devastating famines and droughts throughout the centuries, Tōno has always been subject to the whims of nature. Given this harsh history, superstitious residents have a healthy mix of fear and admiration for the natural world, which has led to the creation of a whole assortment of wild creatures that run the gamut from the odd to the perverse (see the boxed text).
The merging of eight traditional farming villages formed the present city, and much of that rural flavour is preserved today. There are still some examples of the local architectural style of L-shaped farmhouses, known as magariya, where farm-folk and their prized horses lived under one roof, albeit in different sections (unlike the fertility goddess, Oshira-sama; see the boxed text). Tōno is also reportedly home to the country’s largest concentration of kappa, which are mischievous water spirits that figure prominently in Japanese mythology.
If you have a vivid imagination, and are longing for some clean country air, the Tōno valley is a wonderful place to explore on bicycle, assuming of course you’ve got at least two days to leave behind the trappings of civilisation.
One last thing – if you do happen to come across a kappa, remember to bow – Japanese to the core, kappa will return the gesture, thus spilling out the water they store in their head, and rendering them temporarily powerless!
Orientation & Information
You’ll need some form of transport to make the most of your stay, as there is not much in the town itself to hold your attention for long. A beautiful way to see the countryside is by bicycle, made easier by a fantastic bike trail that runs alongside the river. Renting a car is another option, and bus tours are sporadically available – ask at the tourist information office before making plans.
Tōno City Library (62-2340; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) Offers free internet access.
Tōno post office (; 62-2830; 6-10 Chūō-dōri) Has an international ATM.
Tourist information office (62-1333; 8am-6pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-5.30pm Nov-Mar) To the right as you exit Tōno station; staff speak some English and supply a useful English-language brochure and a map of the three main cycling routes.
Sights
TŌNO TOWN
These two sights are within easy walking distance of the JR Tōno station.
On the upper floors of the city library, the Tōno Municipal Museum (62-2340; 3-9 Higashidate-chō; admission ¥310, combined entrance to Tōno Mukashibanashi-mura ¥520; 9am-5pm, closed last day of each month) has exhibits of folklore and traditional life, and some engaging audiovisual presentations of the various legends of Tōno.
Tōno Mukashibanashi-mura (62-7887; 2-11 Chūō-dōri; admission ¥310, combined entrance to Tōno Municipal Museum ¥520; 9am-5pm) is a folk village with a restored ryokan, where Kunio Yanagita (see the boxed text) once stayed, as well as an exhibition hall for folk art.
TŌNO VALLEY
While technically some of the sights listed here can be accessed by infrequent local buses, it’s far more enjoyable to hop