Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [408]
About 2.5km southwest of Tōno station is Unedori-sama shrine, where women come to tie a red strip of cloth to the surrounding pines (using only their left hand) to ensure a healthy birth. In the hills above it are Gohyaku Rakan, ethereal rock carvings of 500 disciples of Buddha that were fashioned by a priest to console the spirits of those who died in a 1754 famine.
If you continue west along Rte 283 towards Morioka for around 8km, you’ll eventually come to Tsuzuki Ishi. A curious rock that rests amidst aromatic cedar forest, Tsuzukushi Ishi is either a natural formation or a dolmen (primitive tomb). A short, steep hike rewards you with views across the valley.
One kilometre past the rock is the Chiba Family Magariya (62-9529; admission ¥350; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Mar), a traditional L-shaped farmhouse that has been restored to evoke the traditional lifestyle of a wealthy farming family of the 18th century.
Approximately 6km northwest of Tōno station, along Rte 340 towards Miyako, is Denshōen (62-8655; admission ¥520; 9am-5pm, last entry 4.30pm), a small folk village featuring a hall with 1000 Oshira-sama dolls.
A few hundred metres southeast of Denshōen is Jōken-ji, a peaceful little temple dedicated to the deity image of Obinzuru-sama – some believe it will cure their illness if they rub the parts of its body corresponding to the location of their ailment.
Behind the temple is the Kappa-buchi pool. Legend has it that kappa, belying their impish nature, once put out a fire in the temple; the lion statue was erected as a gesture of thanks to honour this good deed. It is said that if pregnant women worship at the shrine on the riverbank they’ll produce plenty of milk, but only if they first produce a breast-shaped offering. The tiny temple is filled with small cloth bags, either red or white, most replete with nipple.
About 2.5km north of Denshōen along local roads is Fukusen-ji (62-3822; 7-57 Komagi, Matsuzaki; admission ¥300; 8am-4.30pm Apr-Dec). Founded in 1912, the temple’s major claim to fame is the wooden Fukusen-ji Kannon statue (17m high and weighing 25 tonnes), which took 12 years to complete and is supposedly the tallest of its type in Japan.
About 3.5km beyond Fukusen-ji, Tōno Furusato-mura (64-2300; 5-89-1 Kami-tsukimoushi, Tsukimoushi-chō; admission ¥520; 9am-5pm) is Tōno’s largest folk village, with several different farmhouses, restaurants, a water wheel and a folkcraft gallery, an interesting spot for anyone who is interested in traditional Japanese village life.
While these are the major sights, don’t be afraid to put down the guidebook and have a bit of a DIY adventure. The Tōno valley opens up into some beautiful countryside east of Denshōen, and you never know what sort of demon or spirit lies waiting in the hills and streams around you.
Festivals & Events
Tōno Matsuri () takes place on 14 September, with yabusame (horseback archery, in this case a 700-year-old event), traditional dances and costume parades through the city. It’s a flamboyant spectacle, designed to pray for a bountiful harvest, and is deeply connected with the legends of Tōno.
Sleeping & Eating
Note that aside from the youth hostel, prices in the Tōno valley vary considerably according to the day of the week and the season.
Tōno Youth Hostel (62-8736; www1.odn.ne.jp/tono-yh/index-e.htm; 13-39-5 Tsuchibuchi, Tsuchibuchi-chō; dm from ¥3200; ) A spick-and-span, two-storey hostel that’s a super base for exploring the valley. The manager speaks some English and is well versed in the local legends (there’s a detailed report nightly). Bicycle rental is available, there’s no curfew and there’s an extensive manga library. Meals are available (breakfast/dinner ¥550/1150). From Tōno station, take a bus bound for Sakanoshita to the Nitagai stop (¥290, 12 minutes). From there,