Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [410]
Hourly trains run on the JR Tōhoku line between Hiraizumi and Hanamaki (¥820, 45 minutes). The JR Kamaishi line connects Hanamaki to Tōno (¥1330, one hour), while the JR Tohoku line connects Hanamaki to Morioka (¥650, 45 minutes).
There are several trains every hour on the shinkansen line between Sendai and Shin-hanamaki (¥5550, one hour). The JR Kamaishi line connects Shin-hanamaki to Tōno (¥1250, 45 minutes), while the shinkansen line connects Shin-hanamaki to Morioka (¥2950, 15 minutes).
Tōno is one place where car rental might be a good idea, though you’ll definitely need the car’s navigation computer to find your way around – try Kankō Rent-a-Car (62-1375), inside the train station. Bicycle rental is available from the tourist office at ¥1000 per day, or from the youth hostel.
Return to beginning of chapter
MORIOKA
019 / pop 305,000
The historical seat of power for the Nambu clan, as well as the present-day capital of Iwate-ken, Morioka is a beautiful old castle town framed by three flowing rivers and a brooding volcano. Serving as one of Tōhoku’s major transport hubs, you’ll most likely whiz through Morioka at some point during your travels, though it’s certainly worth getting off the train and having a look around. In addition to providing access to the trails on Mt Iwate, Morioka is also the birthplace of wanko-soba, an all-you-can-eat noodle extravaganza that needs to be experienced to be believed.
Orientation
The city centre is east of the station, which lies on the southwest corner of the action, on the other side of the Kitakami-gawa. Ōdōri, which heads over the Kaiun-bashi up to Iwate-kōen, is the main shopping street.
Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Iwate International Plaza and Morioka Tourist Information Centre provide free access.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Iwate Medical University Hospital (651-5111; 19-1 Uchi-maru)
MONEY & POST
Morioka Central Post Office (; 624-5353; 1-13-45 Chūō-dōri; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 12.30pm Sun, ATM 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, to 7pm Sun) Has an international ATM.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Iwate International Plaza (654-8900; 5th fl, AIINA, 1-7-1 Moriokaekinishi-dōri; 9am-9.30pm) An excellent resource for visitors and residents, with helpful staff, a foreign-newspaper library, local ‘what’s on’ information and free internet.
Morioka Tourist Information Centre (604-3305; 1-1-10 Nakanohashi-dōri; 9am-8pm, closed 2nd Tue of each month) On the 2nd floor of Odette Plaza. Provides free internet access, tourist brochures, phonecards and stamps.
Northern Tōhoku Tourist Information Centre (625-2090; 9am-5.30pm) On the 2nd floor of Morioka station at the north exit, next to the shinkansen ticket gate. Highly efficient, English-speaking staff and a good supply of regional brochures.
Sights
MORIOKA CITY
Morioka is small enough to navigate on foot, though there is a tourist bus (Click here) that makes a convenient loop between the major sights listed below.
If you head east on foot from the station along Kaiun-bashi for about 20 minutes, you’ll eventually come to Iwate-kōen, the park where Morioka-jō once stood. Only the castle’s moss-covered stone foundation walls remain as a testament to Edo-period life, though the park has pleasant views over the city. Also look out for the totem pole, which was presented by Morioka’s sister city in British Columbia, and was a collaboration between a Native North American chief and a local woodcarver.
A few blocks north of the park in front of the Morioka District Court is the Rock-Splitting Cherry Tree, a much beloved local attraction. This 300-year-old tree, which sprouted from the crack in a huge granite boulder, has the locals claiming that it’s pushed its way through over time. That’s clearly an impossible feat, but it makes for a very charming story, and is nevertheless a stunning sight to behold.
Heading north along the same street for another 1.5km will bring you to Morioka’s teramachi (temple district). The district is centred on Hōon-ji (), a quiet Zen defined by its impressive San-mon (Main Gate),