Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [411]
AROUND MORIOKA
Iwate-San
The jagged molar of Iwate-san (2038m) is a dominating landmark northwest of Morioka, and was at one time a popular destination for mountaineers. In theory, seven walking trails are open between July and October, though they’re frequently closed due to intense volcanic activity. If the mountain is accessible, buses depart JR Morioka station for the various trailheads – check with tourist information in Morioka for the latest mountain conditions and transport info.
Festivals & Events
Chagu-Chagu Umakko Matsuri On the second Saturday of June, features a parade of brightly decorated horses and children in traditional dress.
Hachiman-gū Matsuri During the festival from 14 to 16 September, portable shrines and colourful floats are paraded to the rhythm of taiko (Japanese drums).
Sleeping
Kumagai Ryokan (651-3020; fax 626-0096; http://kumagairyokan.com; 3-2-5 Ōsawakawara; s/d from ¥4700/8400; ) A very foreigner-friendly, Japanese-style inn that is located about eight minutes on foot east of the station (behind the large church). Kumagai offers clean and tidy rooms as well as a pleasant Japanese garden and folk-craft displays.
Morioka New City Hotel (654-5161; fax 654-5168; www.moriokacityhotel.co.jp/newcity, in Japanese; 13-10 Ekimae-dōri; r from ¥5670; ) Conveniently located across the road from the station, this relaxed business hotel caters primarily for single travellers. Rooms are simple but more than adequate, and the subdued restaurants help you to feel at home. LAN cable internet available.
Hotel Metropolitan Morioka (625-1211; fax 625 1210; www.metro-morioka.co.jp/morioka/index.html; 1-44 Ekimae-dōri; s/d incl breakfast from ¥9240/17,325 ) Business hotels cluster around the east exit of the station, though this upmarket offering adjacent to the Fezan department store is in a class of its own. Plush rooms with ultramodern amenities are enhanced by impeccable service, as well as a great range of onsite bars, restaurants and lounges. LAN cable internet available.
Eating & Drinking
Famished? Let’s see you eat hundreds of bowls of the local noodle dish, wanko-soba. More of a competition between you and the waitress (who tries to refill your bowl faster than you can say you’re full), it’s a fun culinary tradition that is well worth doing once. Of course, you’re going to need practice if you want to break the record and top 550-plus bowls of soba!
Azumaya Honten (622-2252; 2nd fl, Miurabiru Bldg, 1-8-3 Naka-no-hashi-dōri; wanko-soba from ¥2600; 11am-8pm) Try notching up your noodle-bowl count at this famous noodle shop, with a history dating back more than 100 years. Just east of the Nakatsu-gawa across the street from the Nakachan department store, the staff here at this unmistakable shop are fairly comfortable with helping out foreign customers.
Chokurian (624-0441; 1-12-13 Naka-no-hashi-dōri; wanko-soba from ¥2600; 11am-10pm) Rivalling Azumaya Honten, is this historic noodle shop, dating from 1884. Located in a back alley off Rte 106, it can be a bit tricky to find, though any local can easily point out the old building for you. Like Azumaya Honten, the staff at Chokurian are also adept at feeding foreigners.
HOTJaJa (606-1068; 9-5 Eki-mae-dōri; reimen from ¥580; 11am-10pm) In case you haven’t eaten your fill of noodles, Morioka’s other tasty speciality is reimen, soba noodles served with kimchi (spicy Korean pickles). Just across from the station (look for the English sign), HOTJaJa serves up a large dai (plate) of this deliciously spicy noodle for a few hundred yen.
Fukakusa (622-2353; 1-2 Konya-chō; drinks ¥400-700; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun) A tiny, 40-year-old bar-cafe just behind the old Iwate Bank, Fukakusa has an unbeatable location on the banks of the Nakatsu-gawa. With its cosy wood-panelled interior, piano, warm lighting and handmade prints, it’s a romantic little hideout.
Shopping
The Morioka region is famous for its nanbu tetsubin (cast ironware).