Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [416]
Murai Ryokan (; 22-4755; 9-30 Tanabu-chō, Mutsu; r incl 2 meals from ¥7000) Next to Masakari Plaza in Mutsu, this is a basic place with fairly standard tatami rooms, though you can count on a hot meal and some local hospitality before striking out for the wilds.
Wakinosawa Youth Hostel (; 44-2341; 41 Wakinosawasenokawame, Mutsu; dm from ¥3990, breakfast/dinner ¥525/945; ) Charmingly perched on a hillside at Wakinosawa village, about 15 minutes west of the ferry pier (call ahead for a pick-up if you don’t have a car). Both Western- and Japanese-style dormitory rooms are available, each of which are decked out in rich hardwoods and country stylings. The extremely accommodating owners can drive you to a local onsen before dinner, and conduct excursions to observe snow monkeys in the nearby forests.
Getting There & Around
BUS
There are a few daily direct buses between JR Aomori station and the bus terminal in Mutsu (¥2520, 2½ hours).
CAR
You really need a rental vehicle to get the most out of Shimokita-hantō, and a well-maintained (if somewhat minimal) network of roads provides access to some stunning coastal drives. Since facilities are extremely limited, you’re going to need to pick up your wheels in points further south.
FERRY
There are several daily kaisoku on the JR Tsugaru line between Aomori and Kanita (¥1290, 25 minutes). Mutsuwan (422-3020) runs two to three daily ferries between Kanita and Wakinosawa (¥1420, one hour). Higashi Nihon (0120-756-564) runs two to three daily ferries between Hakodate on Hokkaidō and Ōma (¥1370, 1¾ hours).
TRAIN
There are several daily kaisoku on the JR Ōminato line between Aomori and Shimokita (¥2700, 2½ to four hours) via Noheji. Local buses connect JR Shimokita station and the bus terminal in Mutsu (¥230, 10 minutes).
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Buses to destinations across the peninsula run from the Mutsu bus terminal, though services are cut severely during the winter months. The three main routes for travellers without wheels connect Mutsu to Wakinosawa (¥1790, 1½ hours), Osore-zan (¥750, 40 minutes) and Ōma (¥1880, two hours).
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HIROSAKI
0172 / pop 185,000
Founded in the 17th century by Lord Tsugaru Tamenobu, the town of Hirosaki was once one of Tōhoku’s leading cultural centres. During the Meiji Restoration, however, Tsugaru’s territories were combined with those of the Nambu clan, and power was shifted to Aomori. As history would have it, Aomori, and not Hirosaki, was resultantly targeted by allied bombing campaigns, which inadvertently led to the preservation of Tsugaru’s feudal stronghold.
Today, Hirosaki is centred on its castle grounds, complete with extant keeps and towers, and highlighted by its beautiful canopies of majestic cherry trees. The town also serves as a convenient jumping-off point for an invigorating and equally spiritual trek up Iwaki-san.
Information
Hirosaki Sightseeing Information Centre (37-5501; 9am-6pm) Inside the Kankōkan (tourism building) on the south side of Hirosaki-kōen.
Main post office (232-4104; 18-1 Kita Kawarake-chō) Has an international ATM.
Tourist information office (26-3600; 8.45am-6pm) To the right as you exit Hirosaki station; offers free internet access.
Sights & Activities
HIROSAKI TOWN
The main thoroughfare from the JR Hirosaki station runs for just under 1km west to a block before Hirosaki-kōen (), an expansive public park that has been shaped over the centuries by three castle moats, and landscaped by overhanging cherry trees (more than 5000 in total). You can either burn a bit of shoe leather hiking out here, or take any local bus from stop 2 to Shiyaku-sho-mae (¥100, 20 minutes), which is right across from the park.
At the heart of the park lies the ancient remains of Hirosaki-jō, which was originally constructed in 1611. Only 16 years later, in 1627, the castle was burnt to the ground after being struck by lightning. Two centuries on, one of the corner towers was rebuilt, and it presently contains a small museum (admission ¥300; 9am-5pm Apr-Nov), housing samurai weaponry.
At the northeastern