Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [417]
Just beyond the southwest corner of the park is Fujita Kinen Tei-en (37-5525; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Nov), an impeccably manicured formal Japanese garden that was originally laid out in 1919 for a wealthy local businessman.
Aside from Hirosaki-kōen, the town’s other main attraction is the Zenrin-gai () temple district, a 10-minute walk southwest of the castle ruins (follow English signs for Chōshō Temple). An atmospheric spot redolent of Old Japan, the district follows the central avenue flanked by temples to Chōshō-ji (; admission ¥500; 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov–mid-Dec), which harbours rows of mausoleums built for the early rulers of the Tsugaru clan.
Festivals & Events
From 1 to 7 August Hirosaki celebrates its Neputa Matsuri, a festival famous for its illuminated floats parading every evening to the accompaniment of flutes and drums. The festival is generally said to signify ceremonial preparation for battle, expressing sentiments of bravery for what lies ahead and of heartache for what lies behind.
Sleeping
Hirosaki Youth Hostel (33-7066; 11 Mori-machi; dm from ¥3045; ) Tucked away on a side street two blocks south of the outer moat, this hostel is identifiable by the large ‘YH’ sign on the exterior. A friendly, but somewhat institutional, place, Hirosaki’s youth hostel is nevertheless smack in the middle of the town’s main sights.
Hirosaki Grand Hotel (32-1515; fax 32-1810; www.ehotel.co.jp/hotels/hirosaki/index.html; 1 Ichiban-chō; s/d from ¥6000/9000; ) A very affordable business hotel with good service, decent restaurants and moderate-sized rooms, the Hirosaki Grand Hotel is within easy walking distance of the castle. It’s a fairly nondescript grey building – look for the large ‘G’ sign. LAN cable internet available.
Best Western Hotel New City Hirosaki (37-0700; fax 37-1229; 1-1-2 Ohmachi; s/d from ¥8500/12000; ) Forget everything you know about the Best Western brand – this chic little boutique hotel boasts upmarket Western-style rooms that are a welcome change from the standard and stale business hotel. It’s attached to the JR Hirosaki station and shopping complex. LAN cable internet available.
Eating & Drinking
Manchan (35-4663; 36-6 Dotemachi; sweets around ¥750 9.30am-8pm, closed 1st & 3rd Thu) A lovely little cafe that is reportedly one of the oldest in the region, Manchan is the perfect spot for an afternoon tea and a flaky pastry (there’s no English menus, but you can easily point!). The cafe is across the street from the Nakasan department store – look for the bifurcated cello standing guard.
Bīru-tei (37-7741; Hokusaikan, 26-1 Dote-machi; lunch & dinner) Over three floors, this megalithic monument to consumption, located on the main approach to the castle, carefully hedges its bets. It features an Irish pub (open 11am to 11pm) on the 1st floor, a Cheers-style bar with a comprehensive international-beer menu on the 2nd and an izakaya (pub-eatery; open noon to 1am) on the 3rd. The English menu makes it all the more foreigner-friendly.
Live House Yamauta (36-1835; 1-2-7 Ōmachi; dinner/show per person from ¥3000; 5-11pm, closed alternate Mon) Just a few steps down the road from the station (look for the English sign), this popular venue offers nightly performances of traditional Japanese folk music alongside locally influenced izakaya dishes. Call ahead for reservations – the staff caters well for foreign guests.
Getting There & Away
Hourly tokkyū on the JR Ōu Main line run between Aomori and Hirosaki (¥1460, 35 minutes), and Hirosaki and Akita (¥4130, two hours). Regular buses also run from the terminal adjacent to Itō Yōkadō department store to Aomori (¥2930, 2½ hours).
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IWAKI-SAN
Soaring above Hirosaki is the sacred volcano of Iwaki-san (; 1625m), a popular peak for both pilgrims and hikers. From early April to late