Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [421]
Kuroyu Onsen (; 46-2214; fax 46-2280, www.kuroyu.com, in Japanese; 2-1 Aza-kuroyuzawa, Obonai; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥11,700, bath ¥500; ) At the streamside Kuroyu, you’ll easily feel like you’ve stepped back into a Japanese wood-block print. With a bathing tradition dating back more than 300 years, Kuroyu is famous for its hydrogen sulphide spring that is said to ease high blood pressure, diabetes and arteriosclerosis.
Getting There & Around
BUS
Frequent local buses run between the JR Tazawa-ko station to Tazawa Kohan (¥350, 10 minutes), and between Tazawa Kohan and Nyūtō Onsen (¥650, 40 minutes). Note that these services terminate after sunset.
From April to October, there are three daily buses in either direction between JR Tazawa-ko station and Hachimantai Chōjō (¥1990, 2¼ hours), and six daily buses in either direction between the station and Komaga-take Hachigōme (¥1000, one hour).
CAR
If you’re driving, a well-maintained network of local roads branches off the Akita Expressway () running between Morioka and Akita.
TRAIN
Several hourly trains on the Akita shinkansen line run between Tazawa-ko and Tokyo (¥14,900, three hours) via Morioka (¥13,640, 2½ hours), and between Tazawa-ko and Akita (¥3080, one hour) via Kakunodate (¥1360, 15 minutes). Infrequent local trains also run on the JR Tazawako line between Tazawa-ko and Kakunodate (¥320, 25 minutes).
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KAKUNODATE
0187 / pop 30,000
Established in 1620 by Ashina Yoshikatsu, the lord of the Satake clan, Kakunodate is known as ‘Little Kyoto’, and presents a thoughtful, immersive experience for anyone interested in catching a glimpse of old Japan. While the original castle that once guarded over the feudal town is no more, the bukeyashiki – or samurai district – is splendidly preserved. A veritable living museum of Japanese culture and history, the bukeyashiki consists of original samurai mansions surrounded by cherry trees and lush garden expanses. It takes an hour or so to stroll through the district, which makes Kakunodate a pleasant stopover en route between Tazawa-ko and Akita.
Orientation & Information
The bukeyashiki is a 15-minute walk northwest from Kakunodate station. If you don’t feel like walking, you can hire a bicycle (per hr ¥300) at the taxi office across from the station.
Library (Sōgō Jōhō Centre; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) Free internet access.
Post office (54-1400) Has an international ATM.
Tourist information office (54-2700; 9am-6pm mid-Apr–Sep, to 5.30pm Oct–mid-Apr) Outside the station in a small building shaped like a kura. There are English maps, and some staff speak English.
Sights
Pick up an English-language map from the tourist information centre, and then set out either on foot or bike. You can see everything in a short time, but it’s best to go slow and soak up the ancient atmosphere.
Each of the samurai mansions is impressive in its own right, though the highlight of the district is the Kakunodate Rekishimura Aoyagi-ke (54-3257; www.samuraiworld.com/english/index.html; 3 Omotemachi, Shimochō; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar). This agglomeration of mini-museums exhibits everything from Aoyagi family heirlooms and folk art to valuable antiques including old-time cameras, gramophones and classic jazz records.
Built in 1809, the Bukeyashiki Ishiguro-ke (55-1496; Omotemachi; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm) was the residence of the Isihiguro family, advisers to the Satake clan, and remains one of the oldest buildings in the district. A descendant of the family still lives here, but some of the rooms have been opened to the public.
Kakunodate Kabazaiku Denshōkan (54-1700; 10-1 Omotemachi Shimochō; admission ¥300, combined ¥510; 9am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) is a museum that houses various exhibits and has demonstrations of kabazaiku (household or decorative items covered in cherry