Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [422]
There is no shortage of cheap kabazaiku for sale in town, though the high-quality products can be found at Fujiki Denshirō Shōten (54-1151; 45 Shimoshinmachi; 9am-5.30pm, closed Sun in winter), which operates its own workshop.
Festivals & Events
On the river embankment, a 2km ‘cherry blossom tunnel’ comes alive around April/May. Some of the shidarezakura (drooping cherry) trees in the bukeyashiki are up to 300 years old, and were originally brought from Kyōtō.
From 7 to 9 September, Kakunodate celebrates the Hikiyama Matsuri, in which participants haul around enormous seven-tonne yama (wooden carts) to pray for peaceful times, accompanied by folk music and dancing.
Sleeping & Eating
The majority of travellers stay in either Tazawa-ko or Akita, and visit Kakunodate in a day trip. However, there are some attractive spots to stay for the night.
Ishikawa Ryokan (54-2030; 32 Iwasemachi; r incl 2 meals from ¥9000) This atmospheric, Edo-period ryokan continues to operate just as it did in the time of travelling samurai.
Tamachi Bukeyashiki Hotel (52-2030; fax 52-1701; www.bukeyashiki.jp, in Japanese; 52 Tamachi; r with/without 2 meals from ¥17,850/13,125) A Western-style hotel of mind-blowing opulence that preserves the original character and structure of the samurai mansion.
Several of the old houses in the bukeyashiki serve noodles, though the town’s most historically significant lunch spot is Kosendō (53-2902; noodles from ¥750; lunch & dinner), an old wooden schoolhouse – try the inaniwa udon (udon noodles in a clear mushroom soup; ¥850).
Getting There & Away
Several hourly trains on the Akita shinkansen line run between Kakunodate and Tazawa-ko (¥1360, 15 minutes), and between Kakunodate and Akita (¥2740, 45 minutes). Infrequent local trains also run on the JR Tazawako line between Kakunodate and Tazawa-ko and (¥320, 25 minutes), and between Kakunodate and Akita (¥1280, 1¾ hours), with a change at Ōmagari to the JR Ōu line.
Buses run from Kakunodate to Tazawa Kohan (¥840, 52 minutes) and Tazawa-ko station (¥490, 35 minutes), as well as to Akita (¥1330, 1½ hours). From December to March, these buses do not stop at Tazawa Kohan. Kakunodate bus station is 10 minutes north of the train station.
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AKITA
018 / pop 336,000
The northern terminus of the aptly dubbed Akita shinkansen, this sprawling commercial city and prefectural capital is one of the region’s principal transport hubs. For most Japanese, however, the city is more famous for its ‘Akita-bijin’ (a beautiful woman from Akita), who is rumoured to have the fairest complexion in the country. This is somewhat ironic given how ugly the city itself can be – it was virtually destroyed by Allied bombing during WWII – though things brighten up during the famous Kantō Matsuri in August. You’re likely to pass through Akita once or twice during your travels, and the good local food is another bonus.
Information
Akita Central Police Station (835-1111; 1-9 Meitoku-chō, Senshū)
Akita central post office (; 823-2900; 5-1 Hodono Teppōmachi) Five minutes west of the train station’s west exit, in the backstreets near the market.
Akita Red Cross Hospital (; 829-5000; 222-1 Naeshirosawa Aza Kamikitatesaruta)
Comic Buster (884-7472; 2nd fl, ALVE Bldg, 4-1 Higashidōri Nakamachi; internet per 30min ¥320; 24hr) Connected to the east exit of the JR station; the building is pronounced ‘Aroo-vay’.
Tourist information office (832-7941; www.akitafan.com/language/en/index.html; 9am-7pm) Opposite the shinkansen tracks on the 2nd floor of Akita station.
Sights
Akita’s few sights cluster in the city centre near the train station, so you can easily get around on foot without fear of getting too lost.
Originally constructed in 1604, Akita’s castle, Kubota-jō, was destroyed with other feudal relics during