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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [423]

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the Meiji ‘enlightenment’. However, the hallowed ruins still frame Senshū-kōen (), a leafy park just 10 minutes due west of the station. The park protects a few odd walls, turrets, guardhouses and an observation platform that delivers appealing views of the city.

At the heart of the park also lies the Masakichi Hirano Art Museum (833-5809; 3-7 Senshū Meitoku-chō; admission ¥610; 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, to 5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr), which is noted for its enormous painting, Events of Akita. Reputed to be the world’s largest canvas painting, it measures 3.65m by 20.5m and depicts traditional Akita life throughout the seasons.

The city’s last two major sights can be reached by exiting the park to the west, crossing over the river, walking two blocks and turning south. You should now see the Kantō Festival Centre (866-7091; Neburi Nagashi-kan; admission ¥100; 9.30am-4.30pm, 9am-9pm during festivals), which has exhibitions and videos of Akita’s famous Kantō Matsuri. Here, you can try to heft the famous kantō poles. It won’t be easy – these babies are 10m long and weigh around 60kg!

Continue south past the Akita New City department store until you come to the Akarengakan Museum (864-6851; 3-3-21 Ōmachi; admission ¥200; 9.30am-4.30pm), a Meiji-era, Renaissance-style, red-brick building. Inside, you’ll find wood-block prints of traditional Akita life by self-taught folk artist Katsuhira Tokushi. A combined ticket with the Kantō Festival Centre is available at either place for ¥250.

Festivals & Events

From 3 to 6 August, Akita celebrates the visually stunning Akita Kantō Matsuri (; Pole Lantern Festival; www.kantou.gr.jp/english/index.htm). Starting in the evening along Kantō Ōdori, more than 160 men skilfully balance giant poles, weighing 60kg and hung with illuminated lanterns, on their heads, chins, hips and shoulders, to the beat of taiko drumming groups. As the aim of the festival is to pray for a good harvest, the arrangement of the lanterns is designed to resemble an ear of rice. During the day, exhibitions of music and pole balancing are held in Senshū-kōen. Book accommodation well in advance.

Sleeping

Cheap business hotels cluster near the station if you find yourself in a pinch, though the accommodation options listed are above and beyond.

Naniwa Hotel (832-4570; www.hotel-naniwa.jp, in Japanese; 6-18-27 Nakadōri; d per person with/without 2 meals ¥6200/3500; ) This family-run hotel consists of cutesy and cosy tatami rooms as well as appealing extras including free massage chairs, a beautiful 24-hour hinoki (Japanese cyprus) bath and meals made with the owners’ own home-grown rice. From the station, turn left at the Topico plaza, and head south until you hit the major throughway – it’s the red building with a wooden entrance.

Ryokan Chikuba-sō (832-6446; 4-14-9 Naka-dōri; r per person with/without 2 meals ¥6800/4200) This comfortable, welcoming inn offers Japanese-style rooms with enough leg room, and an affordable meal plan featuring hearty local favourites. It’s convenient to the station’s west exit.

Akita View Hotel (832-1111; www.akitaviewhotel.jp; 2-6-1 Naka-dōri; s/tw from ¥9500/18,000; ) Next to the Seibu department store on the main approach to the park, the View takes swanky to new levels with an imposing lobby, impressive restaurants, an enormous pool, and modern rooms decorated with plush furnishings and bedspreads. LAN cable internet available.

Akita Castle Hotel (834-1141; www.castle-hotel.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-3-5 Nakadōri; s/d from ¥11,000/18,000; ) The Akita Castel Hotel beats other upmarket offerings with its great location – you can survey the castle moat from the south as you lord over a fine French meal. Western and Japanese-style rooms are predictably first-class, as is the impeccable service. LAN cable internet available.

Eating & Drinking

If you want to window shop for a delectable meal, check out the 3rd-floor restaurant arcade of Akita station’s Topico Plaza.

You can’t leave Akita without sampling kiritanpo, kneaded rice wrapped around bamboo spits and then barbecued over a charcoal

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