Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [424]
Kawabata-dōri, which runs parallel to the river of the same name, serves as Akita’s main nightlife area and pleasure quarter.
Otafuku (862-0802; 4-2-25 Ōmachi; kiritanpo from ¥2000; lunch & dinner) Specialising in kiritanpo-nabe (¥2520), a masterful hotpot of sticky rice stew, this restaurant is in a traditional black and beige wooden building on the western banks of the Kawabata-gawa.
Bekkan (62-7481; 4-2-11 Ōmachi; set meals around ¥3000; lunch & dinner) You can try shottsuru as well as kiritanpo and other regional specialties at the justifiably famous Bekkan. Ordering can be a bit tricky here, though if you say the name of the dish you want to try, the wait staff will do their best to accommodate you. The restaurant is housed in a traditional wooden structure on the opposite bank of the Albert Hotel.
Green Pocket (863-6917; 5-1-7 Ōmachi; 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat) One place that definitely bucks the neon trend of Kawabata-dōri, is this little gem at the street’s southern end. Decked out in authentic period panelling, there’s an old-time piano in the corner, Vivien Leigh prints on the walls and a fabulously decadent selection of scotch whiskies and fine wines – classy.
Getting There & Away
AIR
From Akita airport, 21km south of the city centre, there are domestic flights to various destinations, such as Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Sapporo and others. Frequent buses run between JR Akita station and the airport (¥890, 40 minutes).
BOAT
From the port of Akita-kō, Shin Nihonkai (880-2600) ferries run at 7am on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday to Tomakomai on Hokkaidō (from ¥4300, 12½ hours). At 9am on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, ferries run to Niigata (from ¥3900, 8½ hours), with the Sunday and Wednesday ferries continuing on to Tsuruga (from ¥6600, 20½ hours). One bus daily at 6.05am runs from the JR Akita station to Akita-kō, 8km northwest of the station (¥390, 30 minutes). There is a small ticket office at the pier.
BUS
JR highway night buses depart from the bus station in front of the east exit of the train station daily at 9.20pm, and arrive in Tokyo’s Nihombashi station the next morning at 6am (¥9100). Buses from Tokyo arrive at this bus station, too.
CAR
If you’re driving, the Akita Expressway () runs between Morioka and Akita.
TRAIN
Several hourly trains on the JR Akita shinkansen run between the northern terminus of Akita and the southern terminus of Tokyo (¥16,470, four hours) via Morioka (¥4300, 1½ hours), Tazawako (¥3080, one hour) and Kakunodate (¥2740, 45 minutes). Infrequent local trains also run on the JR Ōu line between Akita and Kakunodate (¥1280, 1¾ hours), with a change at Ōmagari to the JR Tazawako line. Finally, there are a few tokkyū each day on the JR Uetsu line connecting Akita with Niigata (¥6820, 3¾ hours).
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YAMAGATA-KEN
While it’s not as famous as its neighbouring prefectures, Yamagata-ken is home to a couple of Tōhoku’s top attractions. At the top of the list is tiny but tranquil Zaō Onsen, famous for its enormous rotemburo and challenging ski slopes. A close second is the sacred trio of peaks at Dewa Sanzan, which are revered by yamabushi (mountain priests) and hikers alike. Yamadera offers temple buffs and Bashō fans some spectacular photo opportunities, while quieter places like Tobi-shima and Tendō have charm all of their own.
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TOBI-SHIMA
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You’re gonna have to work hard to get out to this tiny island floating in the Sea of Japan, though your reward will be time spent on a lonely landmass defined by rugged sea cliffs and expansive sea caves. Only 8 sq km in size, and home to less than 100 people inhabiting small fishing villages, the nature here is pristine, especially if you’re a fan of birdwatching, wilderness