Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [425]
There aren’t too many places to stay on the island, though a long-standing spot is the Sawaguchi Ryokan (; 95-2246; fax 96-3052; 73 Ko-katsūra; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥8400), a modest Japanese-style inn where you can feast on some serious seafood spreads. Sawaguchi is located approximately five minutes on foot from the ferry pier (the building is marked by a red ship’s wheel). Islanders are friendly, and can easily point the way, though you can always call ahead for a pick-up.
The jumping-off point for Tobi-shima is the coastal town of Sakata, which is easiest to access by rail. A few daily tokkyū on the JR Uetsu Main line run between Akita and Sakata (¥3500, 1½ hours), and between Sakata and Niigata (¥4930, 2¼ hours) via Tsuruoka (¥1290, 20 minutes). There are also a few daily futsū running on the same line between Akita and Sakata (¥1890, two hours), and between Sakata and Tsuruoka (¥480, 45 minutes).
There is a small but helpful tourist information centre (24-2233; 9am-6pm) at the station that can give you information on the ferries, and call ahead to reserve tickets.
New Tobishima (22-3911) runs at least once (often twice) daily in both directions between the port of Sakata-kō and the island (¥2040, 1½ hours). You should make advanced reservations in the summer, though other times you can buy your tickets at the port. Fairly regular local buses connect the JR Sakata station to Sakata-kō (¥100, 10 minutes), or you can simply take a taxi (around ¥1000).
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TSURUOKA
0235 / pop 144,000
Tsuruoka is a pleasant enough place to spend the night and get some rest, which is a good thing as you’re going to need it if you plan on tackling nearby Dewa Sanzan. Indeed, Tsuruoka serves as the take-off point for Tōhoku’s most famous trio of mountains, though this former castle town in the middle of the Shōnai plain was once an important city in its own right. Established by the Sakai clan, one of feudal Yamagata’s most important families, Tsuruoka continues to hold on to a few relics of its proud past.
Information
Internet access (; 29-7775; 1hr free; 9am-7.30pm) On the 3rd floor of the Marica building, opposite JR Tsuruoka station.
Post office With ATM service, 300m south of the station.
Tourist information office (25-7678; 10am-5pm Nov-Feb, 9.30am-5.30pm Mar-Oct) To the right as you exit JR Tsuruoka station; can book accommodation and has information about Dewa Sanzan.
Sights & Activities
CHIDŌ HAKUBUTSUKAN
Founded in 1950 by the former Lord Shōnai in order to develop and preserve local culture, this museum (22-1199; 10-18 Kachū-shinmachi; admission ¥700; 9am-4.30pm) features Sakai family artefacts, a family residence, two Meiji-era buildings, a traditional storehouse and a kabuto-zukuri (a farmhouse with a thatched roof shaped like a samurai helmet).
The museum is on the southwest corner of Tsuruoka-kōen, the sight of the former Sakai castle. You can either walk for about 15 minutes southwesterly from the JR Tsuruoka station, or take a bus from stop 1 – frequent buses bound for Yunohama Onsen pass by the Chidō Hakubutsukan-mae stop (¥200, 10 minutes).
ZENPŌ-JI
Seven kilometres west of Tsuruoka you’ll find this Zen-Buddhist temple, complete with a five-tier pagoda and large gateway. It dates from the 10th century, when it was dedicated to the Dragon King, guardian of the seas. Near the temple is a more contemporary attraction, the famous jinmen-gyo (human-faced carp). When viewed from above, these curious fish actually do appear to have human faces. From the station, take a bus bound for Yunohama Onsen to the Zenpō-ji stop (¥580, 30 minutes).
Festivals & Events
Tenjin Matsuri Tsuruoka’s best-known festival, on 25 May, is also known as the Bakemono Matsuri (Masked Faces Festival). People stroll around in masks and costume for three days, serving sake and keeping an eye out for friends and acquaintances. The object is to make it through three festivals in a row without anyone recognising you, whereupon local lore states