Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [436]
Even if you’re not an avid hiker, Sado is still an alluring destination of incredible rural beauty. Framed by mountainous backdrops, vast orchards of persimmon trees stretch across cultivated fields, while small fishing villages bustle with life along the rocky shores of the Sea of Japan. Wind your way across ocean-side roads and lofty mountain passes, and pause to soak up panoramic vistas of old Japan, much of which have long since disappeared from the mainland.
Sado is a large island home to southern and northern mountain ranges that run parallel and are separated by a vast fertile plain. Small fishing villages dot the island’s ring road, though much of the population is confined to the central agricultural region.
The best time to visit is between late April and mid-October. During the harsh winter, the weather will be foul, much of the accommodation will be closed and transport will be slashed to a bare minimum.
Sado is well furnished with guest houses, youth hostels and camping, though booking accommodation in advance is a good idea during the hectic summer months. Ask the tourist information offices for help if necessary as only a few of the many options are listed here.
While there is a comprehensive and fairly regular bus network between major towns on Sado-ga-shima, you really need a private vehicle to access the island’s most scenic parts, and a good number of accommodation options are situated far from bus stops. Fortunately, car rental is readily available in the town of Ryōtsu, which also serves as the island’s primary access point and transport hub.
Festivals & Events
One of Sado’s biggest draws is the Earth Celebration (; www.kodo.or.jp), a three-day music, dance and arts festival usually held during the third week in August. The event features okesa (folk dances), onidaiko (demon drum dances) and tsuburosashi (a phallic dance with two goddesses). However, the focal point of the Earth Celebration is the performance of the Kodo Drummers, who live in a small village north of Ogi, but spend much of the year on tour across the world. Considered to be one of the most elite drumming groups on the planet, all members are required to adhere to strict physical, mental and spiritual training regimens. If you’re interested in attending, be advised that you will need to buy tickets and arrange accommodation well in advance.
Other major festivals:
Kōzan Matsuri () Fireworks, okesa and float parades on the fourth weekend of July.
Ryōtsu Tanabata Kawabiraki () Onidaiko and Sado’s biggest fireworks display, held on 7 and 8 August.
Shishi-ga-jō Matsuri () Beach volleyball and fireworks on 11 August.
Ogi Minato Matsuri () Lion dances, folk songs, tub-boat races and fireworks from 28 to 30 August.
Ryōtsu & Around
Considering that Ryōtsu is essentially a port town, Sado’s main hub is surprisingly beautiful, and serves as an excellent introduction to the rustic splendour of the island. While there isn’t too much here in the way of sights, Ryōtsu is where you can get your bearings, make onward arrangements and get a good night’s rest.
The island’s main tourist information centre (23-3300; 8.30am-5pm, to 6.50pm Jun-Aug) is in Ryōtsu, in the street behind the coffee and souvenir shops across from the ferry terminal. Be sure to stock up on comprehensive maps, bus timetables and tourist pamphlets for the entire island.
Check internet at tiny Clever Cat (23-3158; 138-1 Minato; 30min incl 1 drink from ¥500; 10am-9pm Wed-Mon), near the ferry terminal.
A nice introduction to the island’s ancient culture is the Sado Nōgaku-no-sato (23-5000; 8.30am-5pm; admission ¥500), about 3km out of Ryōtsu; it’s a hi-tech museum of nō drama,