Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [437]
Kunimisō (22-2316; Niibo-Shomyōji; per person incl 2 meals from ¥7000; ) is one of Sado’s most popular minshuku, due to its collection of bunya puppets, which the owner likes to demonstrate to guests. It’s 15 minutes by bus from Ryōtsu to the Uryūya bus stop, then a long walk along a country road to this small house (follow signs). Alternatively, phone ahead for a pick-up from the ferry terminal, or get directions from tourist information if you’re driving.
Located about 2km from Ryōtsu at Sumiyoshi Onsen (look for the large white building), Sado Seaside Hotel (27-7211; fax 27-2713; http://sadoseasidehotel.yuyado.net, in Japanese; 80 Sumiyoshi; s/d from ¥5925/10,800, breakfast/dinner ¥840/1575; ) is a Western-style drive-up motel with sea-view rooms, an attractive onsen, free internet and an obliging free shuttle service to and from the port.
Small restaurants and cafes line Ryōtsu’s main street, and feature seasonal specialities from the sea. Persimmons are also everywhere, and hoshi-gaki (dried winter persimmon) is a common food, even appearing in the traditional yōkan (bean jelly) sweets – some flecked with real gold.
For detailed transport information on accessing Ryōtsu and Sado-ga-shima by ferry, Click here.
Sawata & Around
Some 15km southwest of Ryōtsu, Sawata serves as the island’s main administrative and population centre. With the cessation of Kyokushin Air in early 2008, the airport is looking a bit forlorn these days, though the town itself is still a relaxed and pleasant base for exploring the island.
Near the bus terminal in Sawata, Silver Village Sado (52-3961; fax 52-3963; 981-3 Kubotahama; r incl 2 meals from ¥7500; ) is a centrally located resort hotel with a low-key ambiance, manicured grounds and country-comfort inspired Western rooms. The Silver Village also stages traditional puppet performances (¥750; open to nonguests) on a daily basis during the summer tourist season.
One of our favourite spots on the island is the Green Village(22-2719; www.e-sadonet.tv/~gvyh/eng/index.html; 750-4 Niibo Uryuya; s/d from ¥4100/7200, meals ¥700-1500; ), an adorable little cottage that looks like it was scooped up from some far-flung European hamlet, and plopped down in the middle of Sado. The wonderfully accommodating hosts can help you arrange all manners of activities, and stuff you full of home-baked apple pie before sending you on your way. From Ryōtsu, regular buses on the Minami line heading towards Sawata can drop you off at the Uryūya stop, from where you need to continue for 10 minutes and turn left at the first bend. If you tell the driver you’re going to Green Village, he’ll drop you off a bit closer.
A great little minshuku is Tōkaen (63-2221; fax 61-1051; www.on.rim.or.jp/~toukaen, in Japanese; 1636-1 Otsu; s with/without 2 meals from ¥8400/4200; ), which has an attractive but isolated location in the middle of the central plains. However, it’s a nice escape, especially since the owners are avid outdoors folk who know every trail on the island, and will let you unwind in their shiogama-buro (rock-salt bath) at the end of a long, hard day. Any bus on the Hon line between Ryōtsu and Aikawa via Kanai can drop you off at the Shinbo Undōkōen-mae stop, from where it’s another 3km north on foot. Again, if you tell the driver you’re going to Tōkaen, he’ll drop you off a bit closer.
Regular buses run on the Minami line run between Ryōtsu and Sawata (¥570, 40 minutes), and on the Hon line between Aikawa and Sawata (¥390, 20 minutes).
Mano & Around
Although Mano was the provincial capital and cultural centre of the island from early times until the 14th century, it has since played younger sibling to nearby